After
the tattooist has done his or her job, it's time for you to do yours.
Your tattoo will take close to a month before it is completely healed.
During the first stage of healing (approximately 4 to 5 days), you might
experience soreness, discomfort, swelling, irritation and redness.
During this time, it's important to keep your tattoo clean. Most tattoo
artists will agree that you should wash your new tattoo at least 4 or 5
times a day with a mild or antibacterial soap. Gently pat your tattoo
dry with a clean cloth or paper towel. It is often recommended that you
apply a very thin layer of antibiotic ointment after each wash. (Ask
your tattooist to demonstrate). The second and final stage (3 - 4 weeks)
will have a large effect on the rest of your tattoo's life. A healing
tattoo tends to dry out. At this point it's important to keep your
tattoo moist. A good after care product will help prevent excess
scabbing and infection, which can leave your tattoo blemished or
scarred. Although some tattooists will recommend different approaches to
healing, most will agree on three basic things: keep your tattoo clean,
moist and protected from direct sunlight.
Avoid creams and lotions that contain fragrances, artificial colors and
other unnecessary ingredients that can irritate a healing tattoo.
Monday, August 1, 2016
How to clean your lips
To keep your lips clean, the first thing you should do is to take care to see that your teeth is clean.
Brush your lips with a soft toothbrush of yours to exfoliate the dead cells. If not every day, continue the process, once in three days.
If you are not comfortable using a brush, use a mild scrubber. This should be done every gently since lips are one of the most sensitive part of our body.
After brushing off, apply a lip balm to soften it. Vaseline or any petroleum jelly would also do well.
The lipsticks are not a good cosmetic to be used daily. If used, they should be removed properly everyday. Use cleansing milk or baby oil to wipe of the lipstick blot.
Use a soft cloth or cotton to wipe your lips.
Drink a lot of water so that your lips do not get dehydrated. Dehydrated lips become chapped, cracked and dead.
Apply peppermint oil or ghee daily on your lips to make them look prettier.
Use only high quality products on your lips.
Never lick or chew your lips too often. Saliva damages the protective barrier outside the skin of the lips making it too dry.
Lips also can have allergic reactions to food, beverages, medication etc. Be careful in using them. Develop a healthy eating habit.
Moisten your lips before going to bed with a high quality moisturizer. Let it absorb the whole night.
Apply sugarcane juice on the lips since it acts as an exfoliant.
Lemon is a natural bleach, so if you apply lemon along with a little glycerin to your lips at night, it will help remove darkening of lips
Brush your lips with a soft toothbrush of yours to exfoliate the dead cells. If not every day, continue the process, once in three days.
If you are not comfortable using a brush, use a mild scrubber. This should be done every gently since lips are one of the most sensitive part of our body.
After brushing off, apply a lip balm to soften it. Vaseline or any petroleum jelly would also do well.
The lipsticks are not a good cosmetic to be used daily. If used, they should be removed properly everyday. Use cleansing milk or baby oil to wipe of the lipstick blot.
Use a soft cloth or cotton to wipe your lips.
Drink a lot of water so that your lips do not get dehydrated. Dehydrated lips become chapped, cracked and dead.
Apply peppermint oil or ghee daily on your lips to make them look prettier.
Use only high quality products on your lips.
Never lick or chew your lips too often. Saliva damages the protective barrier outside the skin of the lips making it too dry.
Lips also can have allergic reactions to food, beverages, medication etc. Be careful in using them. Develop a healthy eating habit.
Moisten your lips before going to bed with a high quality moisturizer. Let it absorb the whole night.
Apply sugarcane juice on the lips since it acts as an exfoliant.
Lemon is a natural bleach, so if you apply lemon along with a little glycerin to your lips at night, it will help remove darkening of lips
How to clean my skin from acne
Popping
them leads to scarring so don't pop them! I heard that if you drink a
lot of water, your skin will shed faster and your scars will fade
faster.
To keep my skin clear, I follow these rules:
1) Develop a skin care routine for day and night with following products
when you wake up and before you go to sleep:
- Face scrub (to get rid of dead skin, dirt, oils, etc.) Try St. Ives Blemish Fighting Apricot face scrub
- Acne treatment pads/cream (to get rid of acne) Try Clean & Clears Acne spot treatment
- Moisturizer (to counteract dryness and protect from harsh weather--wait at least 15 minutes for acne treatment to set in before applying a lotion) Try Olay's Face lotion
2) Avoid having ANYTHING touch your face. Anything that touches your face's skin will promote the spreading of bacteria. Even hair that is resting on your face might aid in promoting acne. Don't touch your own skin with your hands/fingers unless it is to apply some skin products
3) Most importantly, drinks LOTS of water and have a good diet. Water is not only extremely good for your skin, it will probably improve almost every area in your body!
4) AVOID anything sugary, oily, greasy, or fried such as soda, potato chips, pizza, candy, or french fries.
* Foods to avoid include:
o Dairy products (milk, cheese, cream, yogurt etc)
o Refined and cooked carbohydrates (flour, bread, rice, crisps and chips, sugar etc)
o Cooked fats (fried food, hydrogenated oils, roasted nuts)
o Meat (beef, pork, chicken, lamb etc)
* All the above foods are acid-forming in the body. If you really want to get rid of acne, you need to eat more alkaline-forming foods -- fresh vegetables and fruit, nuts (sparingly) and seeds. The foods to avoid listed above also cause a sluggish digestive system. If food travels too slowly through the body, toxins build up and aren't carried away by the usual processes and are expelled via the skin, causing acne.
If this does not help you, try using some birth control pills as you may have a hormonal imbalance. Some doctors are able to prescribe you powerful acne medication as well.
To keep my skin clear, I follow these rules:
1) Develop a skin care routine for day and night with following products
when you wake up and before you go to sleep:
- Face scrub (to get rid of dead skin, dirt, oils, etc.) Try St. Ives Blemish Fighting Apricot face scrub
- Acne treatment pads/cream (to get rid of acne) Try Clean & Clears Acne spot treatment
- Moisturizer (to counteract dryness and protect from harsh weather--wait at least 15 minutes for acne treatment to set in before applying a lotion) Try Olay's Face lotion
2) Avoid having ANYTHING touch your face. Anything that touches your face's skin will promote the spreading of bacteria. Even hair that is resting on your face might aid in promoting acne. Don't touch your own skin with your hands/fingers unless it is to apply some skin products
3) Most importantly, drinks LOTS of water and have a good diet. Water is not only extremely good for your skin, it will probably improve almost every area in your body!
4) AVOID anything sugary, oily, greasy, or fried such as soda, potato chips, pizza, candy, or french fries.
* Foods to avoid include:
o Dairy products (milk, cheese, cream, yogurt etc)
o Refined and cooked carbohydrates (flour, bread, rice, crisps and chips, sugar etc)
o Cooked fats (fried food, hydrogenated oils, roasted nuts)
o Meat (beef, pork, chicken, lamb etc)
* All the above foods are acid-forming in the body. If you really want to get rid of acne, you need to eat more alkaline-forming foods -- fresh vegetables and fruit, nuts (sparingly) and seeds. The foods to avoid listed above also cause a sluggish digestive system. If food travels too slowly through the body, toxins build up and aren't carried away by the usual processes and are expelled via the skin, causing acne.
If this does not help you, try using some birth control pills as you may have a hormonal imbalance. Some doctors are able to prescribe you powerful acne medication as well.
Source(s):
http://www.acne-advice.com/articles/get_...
How to Clean New Bellybutton Piercing
General Piercing Aftercare
What You May Need:
•Sea Salt
•Anti-Bacterial or Antimicrobial Liquid Soap/Wash (Like Provon or Satin)
•Cotton Balls
•Cotton-tipped Swabs
•Small disposable cups (2-4 ounces)
•Paper towel or newly cleaned washcloth
Cleaning Your Piercing:
1. First, wash your hands thoroughly. Never touch your piercing or jewelry with dirty hands.
2. Saturate a cotton ball with warm water, and gently wipe away any "crusties" that have gathered around the piercing site. Throw the cotton ball away.
3. Apply a generous amount of liquid soap to your fingertip, and apply to the piercing site and jewelry. Make sure you get the soap everywhere, but rotating the jewelry is not necessary as long as you work the soap around the piercing and jewelry completely.
4. Rinse the piercing and jewelry several times with warm water, ensuring that all soap has been removed.
5. Dry your piercing with a clean paper towel and then dispose of it.
Cleaning Tips
•Although it's a very antiquated method, some piercers will still tell you to rotate your jewelry. This is not wrong per say, but I have found that it causes more problems than it solves. Any crusties or bacteria still on the jewelry are then introduced inside the raw piercing when the jewelry is rotated. This can cause irritation or even infection. It's best to just clean the piercing and jewelry thoroughly without actually moving it.
•Cloth towels, especially those that have been already used, can harbor germs and bacteria. This is why it is safest to use a disposable paper towel. Other single-use products such as gauze, napkins, etc. can also be used. If you must use a fabric cloth or towel, make sure it is clean from the laundry.
Acceptable Healing Aids and Products
•Tea Tree Oil - This soothing liquid cools and refreshes an irritated piercing. Use only high quality tea tree oil that has been diluted with distilled water.
•Emu Oil - A universal healing product that has been discovered to also produce exceptional results when healing a piercing.
•H2Ocean - Although some would call it "glorified saline solution," most do report excellent healing results with this product.
•Saline Solution - Less expensive and more readily available than most other products, saline solution is very effective in soothing and healing a new piercing. It's also an acceptable substitute for sea salt soaks.
Do NOT Use:
•Hydrogen Peroxide - Hydrogen peroxide kills bacteria, but it also kills the white blood cells attempting to heal your piercing. It can cause irritation and lengthen overall healing time.
•Rubbing Alcohol - Alcohol will dry the skin and irritate the raw piercing, which could actually lead to infection.
•Glyoxide - This is a product that contains hydrogen peroxide and hinders healing rather than aiding it.
•Ear Care Solution - Solutions that are provided by jewelry boutiques and department store piercers usually contain alcohol, hydrogen peroxide and other harmful chemicals that only aggravate a new piercing.
•Ointments - Antibacterial ointments or similar products only clog pores and/or kill good cells trying to heal the piercing.
Sea Salt Soaks
1. Wash your hands thoroughly with liquid antibacterial or antimicrobial soap (Satin and Provon are best).
2. Place a pinch of sea salt in the bottom of a small disposable cup. About 1/8 teaspoon.
3. Add hot tap water - as hot as you can stand - to the salt. Use about 3 ounces of water - which is just over half-full in a 5 ounce cup.
4. If possible, invert the cup right over the piercing and allow it to stay there for 5 minutes. This usually works well for nipple and navel piercings. If you can't create a sufficient seal against the skin with the cup, then soak a cotton ball in the salt water solution and apply the cotton ball to the piercing. When it cools down, throw it away and place a newly saturated cotton ball on the piercing. Do this for 5 minutes. 5. Rinse the piercing with warm water and dry with a clean paper towel.
Soaking Tips
•Only pure sea salt is to be used. Table salt, kosher salt, epsom salts, and iodized sea salts are not acceptable. Sea salt can be found in many grocery stores and almost all health food stores.
•If you are not sure about the solution strength, put a dab on your finger and taste it with the tip of your tongue. It should be no saltier than a potato chip.
•To aid in healing a new piercing, sea salt soaks once a day should be sufficient. If your piercing is irritated, increase sea salt soaks to 2-3 times per day until the irritation subsides.
•If your piercing becomes irritated as a result of sea salt soaks, you are probably using either the wrong kind of salt or have made your solution too strong.
What You May Need:
•Sea Salt
•Anti-Bacterial or Antimicrobial Liquid Soap/Wash (Like Provon or Satin)
•Cotton Balls
•Cotton-tipped Swabs
•Small disposable cups (2-4 ounces)
•Paper towel or newly cleaned washcloth
Cleaning Your Piercing:
1. First, wash your hands thoroughly. Never touch your piercing or jewelry with dirty hands.
2. Saturate a cotton ball with warm water, and gently wipe away any "crusties" that have gathered around the piercing site. Throw the cotton ball away.
3. Apply a generous amount of liquid soap to your fingertip, and apply to the piercing site and jewelry. Make sure you get the soap everywhere, but rotating the jewelry is not necessary as long as you work the soap around the piercing and jewelry completely.
4. Rinse the piercing and jewelry several times with warm water, ensuring that all soap has been removed.
5. Dry your piercing with a clean paper towel and then dispose of it.
Cleaning Tips
•Although it's a very antiquated method, some piercers will still tell you to rotate your jewelry. This is not wrong per say, but I have found that it causes more problems than it solves. Any crusties or bacteria still on the jewelry are then introduced inside the raw piercing when the jewelry is rotated. This can cause irritation or even infection. It's best to just clean the piercing and jewelry thoroughly without actually moving it.
•Cloth towels, especially those that have been already used, can harbor germs and bacteria. This is why it is safest to use a disposable paper towel. Other single-use products such as gauze, napkins, etc. can also be used. If you must use a fabric cloth or towel, make sure it is clean from the laundry.
Acceptable Healing Aids and Products
•Tea Tree Oil - This soothing liquid cools and refreshes an irritated piercing. Use only high quality tea tree oil that has been diluted with distilled water.
•Emu Oil - A universal healing product that has been discovered to also produce exceptional results when healing a piercing.
•H2Ocean - Although some would call it "glorified saline solution," most do report excellent healing results with this product.
•Saline Solution - Less expensive and more readily available than most other products, saline solution is very effective in soothing and healing a new piercing. It's also an acceptable substitute for sea salt soaks.
Do NOT Use:
•Hydrogen Peroxide - Hydrogen peroxide kills bacteria, but it also kills the white blood cells attempting to heal your piercing. It can cause irritation and lengthen overall healing time.
•Rubbing Alcohol - Alcohol will dry the skin and irritate the raw piercing, which could actually lead to infection.
•Glyoxide - This is a product that contains hydrogen peroxide and hinders healing rather than aiding it.
•Ear Care Solution - Solutions that are provided by jewelry boutiques and department store piercers usually contain alcohol, hydrogen peroxide and other harmful chemicals that only aggravate a new piercing.
•Ointments - Antibacterial ointments or similar products only clog pores and/or kill good cells trying to heal the piercing.
Sea Salt Soaks
1. Wash your hands thoroughly with liquid antibacterial or antimicrobial soap (Satin and Provon are best).
2. Place a pinch of sea salt in the bottom of a small disposable cup. About 1/8 teaspoon.
3. Add hot tap water - as hot as you can stand - to the salt. Use about 3 ounces of water - which is just over half-full in a 5 ounce cup.
4. If possible, invert the cup right over the piercing and allow it to stay there for 5 minutes. This usually works well for nipple and navel piercings. If you can't create a sufficient seal against the skin with the cup, then soak a cotton ball in the salt water solution and apply the cotton ball to the piercing. When it cools down, throw it away and place a newly saturated cotton ball on the piercing. Do this for 5 minutes. 5. Rinse the piercing with warm water and dry with a clean paper towel.
Soaking Tips
•Only pure sea salt is to be used. Table salt, kosher salt, epsom salts, and iodized sea salts are not acceptable. Sea salt can be found in many grocery stores and almost all health food stores.
•If you are not sure about the solution strength, put a dab on your finger and taste it with the tip of your tongue. It should be no saltier than a potato chip.
•To aid in healing a new piercing, sea salt soaks once a day should be sufficient. If your piercing is irritated, increase sea salt soaks to 2-3 times per day until the irritation subsides.
•If your piercing becomes irritated as a result of sea salt soaks, you are probably using either the wrong kind of salt or have made your solution too strong.
Source(s):
http://tattoo.about.com/cs/beginners/l/blpiercingtlc.htm
How to clean Boston Terrier's ears
The next time you take your puppy in for shots, ask the vet or his/her
assistant to show you how to clean the ears and what to do. UNDER NO
CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD YOU USE A Q-TIP. The vet can give you an ear
cleaning solution to use. Basically, you put it into the ear canal and
then massage the back of the dog's jaw joint on that side of the head
(this helps work it into the ear). Then use a piece of gauze or a clean
cloth to cover the tip of your finger and use that to remove the liquid
from the ear. The dog will want to shake its head -- that's o.k. after
you do a first time with your cloth-covered finger. When it shakes, it
will move some of the fluid out of the ear canal --- just do the
cloth-covered finger to clean the ear again.
You only need to clean the part of the ear that you can reach with your finger. Going any deeper or using anything larger than your finger can injure the dog and possibly rupture the eardrum.
You can also get ear cleaning solutions on-line or at pet supply stores.
I really think it's best to let the vet or a professional groomer show you how to clean the ears.
You only need to clean the part of the ear that you can reach with your finger. Going any deeper or using anything larger than your finger can injure the dog and possibly rupture the eardrum.
You can also get ear cleaning solutions on-line or at pet supply stores.
I really think it's best to let the vet or a professional groomer show you how to clean the ears.
How to clean my dog's ears
If your dog is prone to ear problems, and some breeds like cocker
spaniels are, then you should consider cleaning their ears. Otherwise,
leave their ears alone.
You can purchase a solution from your veterinarian that you can gently squeeze into their ears, rub their ears gently, and allow them to shake their heads. This can be done every 2-6 weeks, depending on what your veterinarian suggests.
If your dog is acting like they have an ear infection (constantly shaking their head, rubbing at their ears, foul smell coming from their ears, etc.) then you need to take your pooch to a veterinarian. They could have an infection or foreign material in their ears.
If you have a dog that's acting like they have an ear problem and you decide to take care of it yourself you can make it worse or push any foreign material further down into their ears, potentially puncturing their ear drums and causing major problems.
I wouldn't use q-tips inside the ear because your dog can move at just the right moment and the q-tip can accidentally bust the eardrum or push foreign matter deeper into the ear. Using q-tips on the outside of the ear, however, is typically safe.
You can purchase a solution from your veterinarian that you can gently squeeze into their ears, rub their ears gently, and allow them to shake their heads. This can be done every 2-6 weeks, depending on what your veterinarian suggests.
If your dog is acting like they have an ear infection (constantly shaking their head, rubbing at their ears, foul smell coming from their ears, etc.) then you need to take your pooch to a veterinarian. They could have an infection or foreign material in their ears.
If you have a dog that's acting like they have an ear problem and you decide to take care of it yourself you can make it worse or push any foreign material further down into their ears, potentially puncturing their ear drums and causing major problems.
I wouldn't use q-tips inside the ear because your dog can move at just the right moment and the q-tip can accidentally bust the eardrum or push foreign matter deeper into the ear. Using q-tips on the outside of the ear, however, is typically safe.
How to clean dogs wounds
1
Diagnose the wound. One of the most common problems dogs have is
called a "hot spot." They will lick it often, and the hair will begin
to disappear around it. Sometimes it has pus and blood around it.
2
Clip the hair from around your dog's wound to allow you to see it and clean it properly and let the wound heal without any hair getting stuck to it. Scissors will work, but clippers are better.
3
Clean the wound with a mild soap and warm water, and be sure all the soap is rinsed out. Gently pat the area dry.
4
Pour hydrogen peroxide on the wound, or dab it on with a cotton ball several times a day. It's not a problem if your dog licks at it a little. Whenever your dog goes outside, clean the wound as soon as he comes back in and reapply the hydrogen peroxide.
2
Clip the hair from around your dog's wound to allow you to see it and clean it properly and let the wound heal without any hair getting stuck to it. Scissors will work, but clippers are better.
3
Clean the wound with a mild soap and warm water, and be sure all the soap is rinsed out. Gently pat the area dry.
4
Pour hydrogen peroxide on the wound, or dab it on with a cotton ball several times a day. It's not a problem if your dog licks at it a little. Whenever your dog goes outside, clean the wound as soon as he comes back in and reapply the hydrogen peroxide.
How to clean a dogs cropped ears
Use peroxide to clean the edges of the ears and then dust the edges
with BFI Powder to help dry them out. BFI Powder is also used for
Athlete’s Foot and is readily available at most drugstores. If this is
not available, just use the juice of an Aloe Leaf (or an ointment) to
help heal the edges.
How to clean my dogs cut
You
can use salt water to clean the wound it will sterilise the it as well
as cleaning it and when it is dry you can smear Manuka honey over the
wound as it has antibacterial properties and will help it to heal (but
make sure you only use manuka honey because any other honey will not
work). My black lab was neutered and had an infection in his stitches,
that would not heal so the vet told me to use Manuka honey and within a
few days he was healing up lovely, so that is what I use whenever he
cuts himself or get an injury. It does work check out this web link it
has a lot of info which you might like to read about this honey. I hope
this helps you and I hope your dog gets well soon.
Source(s):
http://www.manukahoneybenefits.biz/
How to clean a new born puppy
You shouldnt bather a doq until it is AT LEAST 8 weeks of aqe. After that you bathe it.
Buy a dog shampoo from a Pet store.
Human shampoo is NOT acceptable or desirable for bathing puppies or dogs because
the Ph (acid/alkaline balance) of dog skin is different from the human Ph.level.
Dogs feel heat more strongly than we do, so make the bath water about 100 degrees Fahrenheit.
Test it the way you would a baby formula using your wrist or elbow. If it feels warm, it's too hot!
This is my method for bathing a dog.
Gently immerse a puppy into the sink, keeping his head above the water, but getting his body wet all over.
You will wash his head last.
Pour the shampoo into your cupped hand and drizzle it over the pup's wet coat and work it in with your fingers and palms.
Don't forget to wash the tail!
When you have got the body all soaped up and worked into the coat, drain out the soapy water and refill the sink with clean water to rinse away the soap.
Drain the sink again and fill the sink and rinse one more time.
It is very important that all the soap is removed from the coat.
Remove the pup from the basin and wrap him well in a towel, leaving the head exposed.
Gently pour warm water from a cup over his head, from behind the skull, tipping his nose down so that the water runs down and away from his nose and eyes.
Put a small amount of shampoo onto his skull and work it around his ears and neck and under his chin, keeping the soap out of his eyes and mouth.
Rinse his head twice with warm water from the cup, again pouring from back to front, as before.
Now with another small towel dry his head and face. Remove the cotton from the ears.
The reason we wash the head last is because water on the head results in automatic shaking of the whole body.
Since the pup is secured in a towel while you wash the head, you avoid having water sprayed all over the house when the head gets wet.
You can dry the puppy with your hand-held hair dryer set on low, never medium or hot in an area away from the sink and wet floor.
Keep the air flow about 16-18 inches away from the puppy, remembering his sensitivity to heat.
It is very easy to burn a puppy with a hair dryer so be careful.
Don't bathe the puppy unless he is dirty or very smelly.
Too much bathing strips the protecive oils from the coat.
Don't be surprised if you see 'dandruff' while you dry and brush.
Dandruff is a normal reaction to a stressful situation and means nothing, so don't panic!
Buy a dog shampoo from a Pet store.
Human shampoo is NOT acceptable or desirable for bathing puppies or dogs because
the Ph (acid/alkaline balance) of dog skin is different from the human Ph.level.
Dogs feel heat more strongly than we do, so make the bath water about 100 degrees Fahrenheit.
Test it the way you would a baby formula using your wrist or elbow. If it feels warm, it's too hot!
This is my method for bathing a dog.
Gently immerse a puppy into the sink, keeping his head above the water, but getting his body wet all over.
You will wash his head last.
Pour the shampoo into your cupped hand and drizzle it over the pup's wet coat and work it in with your fingers and palms.
Don't forget to wash the tail!
When you have got the body all soaped up and worked into the coat, drain out the soapy water and refill the sink with clean water to rinse away the soap.
Drain the sink again and fill the sink and rinse one more time.
It is very important that all the soap is removed from the coat.
Remove the pup from the basin and wrap him well in a towel, leaving the head exposed.
Gently pour warm water from a cup over his head, from behind the skull, tipping his nose down so that the water runs down and away from his nose and eyes.
Put a small amount of shampoo onto his skull and work it around his ears and neck and under his chin, keeping the soap out of his eyes and mouth.
Rinse his head twice with warm water from the cup, again pouring from back to front, as before.
Now with another small towel dry his head and face. Remove the cotton from the ears.
The reason we wash the head last is because water on the head results in automatic shaking of the whole body.
Since the pup is secured in a towel while you wash the head, you avoid having water sprayed all over the house when the head gets wet.
You can dry the puppy with your hand-held hair dryer set on low, never medium or hot in an area away from the sink and wet floor.
Keep the air flow about 16-18 inches away from the puppy, remembering his sensitivity to heat.
It is very easy to burn a puppy with a hair dryer so be careful.
Don't bathe the puppy unless he is dirty or very smelly.
Too much bathing strips the protecive oils from the coat.
Don't be surprised if you see 'dandruff' while you dry and brush.
Dandruff is a normal reaction to a stressful situation and means nothing, so don't panic!
How to clean terrapins
Aquatic Turtles are a life long commitment.
Clean with water and a tooth brush only.
Their scutes.shell pieces on top are thier skin...so be gentle.
Remember 10 gallons for every inch of turtle. Leave the heater 80 degrees always.
And my pictures don't lie. All ages and all sizes get along as long as their is allot for swim room and plenty to eat! They can become cannibalistic if you have 2 or more turtles and a small environment. They will kill off the smallest and then fight for the tank for themselves.
But if you have plenty of room and fish they will get along fine. My pictures prove that.
Sliders, westerns, cooters , midland, painted, map, yellow bellied all are basically the same and require the same basic care.
They NEED calcium and protein they get it from the fish meat and the fish bones. Drop 20 or 30 or so feeder guppies or small goldfish (or minnows they maybe a bit fast for babies) at first just drop in the tank and watch them disappear in a few days! The more they eat the healthier the turtle.
**** If these are hatchlings a 1” and a tad over they may need to have their live food half dead by leaving the fish out of water for a few minutes (10minutes) and put in the tank. That way the baby can get the meat he needs and the fish can’t out run the baby turtle.
Plus some leafy green and vitamin A fruits cut up a few times a week. Swollen cloudy eyes comes from lack of Vitamin A. Which we all need for good eyes.
Plus I also feed dried cubed blood worms or tubiflex worms or pellets at least 5 times a week for my five..
They can have garden worms which I collect after a good rain and dump them un the pond, also meal worms, snails, crickets, flies, crayfish small frogs, slugs, tadpoles ,dragon flies and anything that moves, but only as a treat.
They need leafy greens Romaine, Butter lettuce. (Iceberg and cabbage are bad for them, any other leafy greens will do) for vitamin A that they need at least 4 to 5 times a week.
They love grapes and strawberries and squash , apples.
These turtles in captivity do not hibernate their eating may slow down some but they will not hibernate. They cannot hear or see well so they feel you coming by the vibrations each foot step take. And in the winter their appetites slow down some.
TOSS in a bird cuttle bone in the water for calcium that will promote better shell growth, it will dissolve real slow and if they eat it that’s fine!!
Did you know that they need to bask under a reptile light UVA/UVB for up to 8 hrs a day for the vitamin D that they need to grow.
So they need a turtle basking dock.
Gravel larger than they can swallow, allot larger.
Their water needs to be clean otherwise they get sick easily from dirty water cause they poop allot.
You need a GREAT filter system!
They will bite very very hard. Under 4" they carry a disease called 'salmonella'. So you must wash after every handling ANY size turtle..
Size for basic aquatic turtle is approx Body length: 5-8" is average for males, up to 12 inches max for females, but average is about 9 to 10“ in captivity. Life span: 15-25+ years plus. Males have the longer front nails and are used in mating. And are considered mature at about 5 yrs old. You can’t start sexing till about 3” across. Real mating happens in May through June and hatchlings within 90 days. Eggs are laid in soil. Do not cut the males nails!!
They sleep at the bottom of rivers, streams. lakes or ponds or your tank to avoid predators like coyotes, foxes, owls, hawks, possums, raccoons and even some wide mouth bass and us humans.
***Some sicknesses they get easily.
Like shell its actual holes rotting through the shell.
Respiratory sickness, lopsided swimming, coughing, vomiting, blowing bubbles from their nose. .
Fungus white cotton patches on their skin, treat by adding a 1/4 of a cup of aquarium salt per 5 gallons to irritate and hopefully kill fungus. The addition of sulfa drugs such as those sold at pet stores under the name "Dr. Turtle" also should help kill fungus. Here is one source that sells Dr. Turtle. They also now sell a Sulfa dip by Zoo Med to treat bacteria and/or fungus.
Clean with water and a tooth brush only.
Their scutes.shell pieces on top are thier skin...so be gentle.
Remember 10 gallons for every inch of turtle. Leave the heater 80 degrees always.
And my pictures don't lie. All ages and all sizes get along as long as their is allot for swim room and plenty to eat! They can become cannibalistic if you have 2 or more turtles and a small environment. They will kill off the smallest and then fight for the tank for themselves.
But if you have plenty of room and fish they will get along fine. My pictures prove that.
Sliders, westerns, cooters , midland, painted, map, yellow bellied all are basically the same and require the same basic care.
They NEED calcium and protein they get it from the fish meat and the fish bones. Drop 20 or 30 or so feeder guppies or small goldfish (or minnows they maybe a bit fast for babies) at first just drop in the tank and watch them disappear in a few days! The more they eat the healthier the turtle.
**** If these are hatchlings a 1” and a tad over they may need to have their live food half dead by leaving the fish out of water for a few minutes (10minutes) and put in the tank. That way the baby can get the meat he needs and the fish can’t out run the baby turtle.
Plus some leafy green and vitamin A fruits cut up a few times a week. Swollen cloudy eyes comes from lack of Vitamin A. Which we all need for good eyes.
Plus I also feed dried cubed blood worms or tubiflex worms or pellets at least 5 times a week for my five..
They can have garden worms which I collect after a good rain and dump them un the pond, also meal worms, snails, crickets, flies, crayfish small frogs, slugs, tadpoles ,dragon flies and anything that moves, but only as a treat.
They need leafy greens Romaine, Butter lettuce. (Iceberg and cabbage are bad for them, any other leafy greens will do) for vitamin A that they need at least 4 to 5 times a week.
They love grapes and strawberries and squash , apples.
These turtles in captivity do not hibernate their eating may slow down some but they will not hibernate. They cannot hear or see well so they feel you coming by the vibrations each foot step take. And in the winter their appetites slow down some.
TOSS in a bird cuttle bone in the water for calcium that will promote better shell growth, it will dissolve real slow and if they eat it that’s fine!!
Did you know that they need to bask under a reptile light UVA/UVB for up to 8 hrs a day for the vitamin D that they need to grow.
So they need a turtle basking dock.
Gravel larger than they can swallow, allot larger.
Their water needs to be clean otherwise they get sick easily from dirty water cause they poop allot.
You need a GREAT filter system!
They will bite very very hard. Under 4" they carry a disease called 'salmonella'. So you must wash after every handling ANY size turtle..
Size for basic aquatic turtle is approx Body length: 5-8" is average for males, up to 12 inches max for females, but average is about 9 to 10“ in captivity. Life span: 15-25+ years plus. Males have the longer front nails and are used in mating. And are considered mature at about 5 yrs old. You can’t start sexing till about 3” across. Real mating happens in May through June and hatchlings within 90 days. Eggs are laid in soil. Do not cut the males nails!!
They sleep at the bottom of rivers, streams. lakes or ponds or your tank to avoid predators like coyotes, foxes, owls, hawks, possums, raccoons and even some wide mouth bass and us humans.
***Some sicknesses they get easily.
Like shell its actual holes rotting through the shell.
Respiratory sickness, lopsided swimming, coughing, vomiting, blowing bubbles from their nose. .
Fungus white cotton patches on their skin, treat by adding a 1/4 of a cup of aquarium salt per 5 gallons to irritate and hopefully kill fungus. The addition of sulfa drugs such as those sold at pet stores under the name "Dr. Turtle" also should help kill fungus. Here is one source that sells Dr. Turtle. They also now sell a Sulfa dip by Zoo Med to treat bacteria and/or fungus.
How to clean acu boots
To clean your Combat Boots, brush with stiff nylon bristle brush to
clean and then use warm water. Do not use soap to clean your boots. If
additional, more stringent cleaning is necessary, only water-soluble
cleaning products should be used as oil- or alcohol-based cleaning
products may damage your boots.
How to clean dish towels
If you use very hot water to rinse your dishes, before you drain the
hot water you can rinse out the dishtowel in that. Then, if you hang it
up to dry (even on the faucet), and it can get thoroughly dry between
uses, then you can use the dishrag all week, and wash it with your other
towels.
If it doesn't get dry, though (or you can't be bothered to rinse it in VERY hot water), I would change it everyday. If you can hang it up somewhere, then you can do them all at once at the end of the week.
Dishtowels (the ones for wiping dry dishes) probably should be changed daily. We had a system where we'd use the "old" towel for draining dishes, and grab a fresh one for wiping. Then the wiping towel would be hung up on a hook, and the draining towel was draped on the laundry basket.
If it doesn't get dry, though (or you can't be bothered to rinse it in VERY hot water), I would change it everyday. If you can hang it up somewhere, then you can do them all at once at the end of the week.
Dishtowels (the ones for wiping dry dishes) probably should be changed daily. We had a system where we'd use the "old" towel for draining dishes, and grab a fresh one for wiping. Then the wiping towel would be hung up on a hook, and the draining towel was draped on the laundry basket.
How to clean violin bow
The same rules apply for cleaning your bow as cleaning your instrument.
It depends also on where you mean, the stick or the frog. If you are talking about the hair, don't do anything, although keep in mind that you are not supposed to touch the hair when you hold the bow. If it is just the frog, unless it is a valuable old bow, you can use some 0000 steel wool and a drop or two of mineral or linseed oil. Don't get any oil on the hair and don't use the steel wool on the bow stick.
You should always be careful when cleaning and polishing an instrument. First of all you always clean an instrument before you polish it. You don't want to polish dirt into the finish. Some cleaners are dangerous to use on some finishes, without trying it first on an inconspicuous spot, like on the side by the chinrest, you won't know how it will react. Most commercial cleaners aren't that effective, keep in mind that violins other than cheap student ones are varnished, this varnish is made up of gums and resins. Cleaners have some sort of solvents in them to break down the dirt; these solvents can also dissolve varnish. I once saw several inches of varnish slide off of a modern Italian violin that was left too close to a rag with alcohol on it. Many professional violin shops use Xylene to clean violins; this is a very dangerous chemical to breath and must be used very carefully. As far as polishing goes, most commercial polishes contain oil - to make things shiny. If there are any open edges or cracks in the instrument, the polish can get into those spaces and make it very difficult to repair. I would recommend that you have the local violin shop do a cleaning and polish. If after it is done, you just use a soft cloth to clean your violin before you put it away each time, that cleaning can last for years. If you are getting lots of rosin dust on your instrument each time you play, you are using too much rosin.
If you want to clean and polish your instrument yourself here are some things to think about.
1. Always check your instrument for open edges and cracks before you polish as doing so may prevent the proper repair of your instrument.
2. If the instrument has a lot of rosin and dirt, you should take it to the violin shop and have it professionally cleaned.
3. Never use any household cleaners or wood polishes on an instrument. Only use specially designed ones for instruments. Never get alcohol near your instrument. Professionals will use Xylene to clean, but it is very bad to breath and can cause cancer, so do it outside and just small amounts on a clean cloth. Start in an inconspicuous spot. Many professionals will use Renaissance Wax to polish; it is similar to a paste automotive wax but has no oils in it.
4. Don’t use a one thing does both polish and cleaner or you will be polishing the dirt into the varnish and it will get trapped and never come off. The longer that rosin sits on the varnished surfaced the more it becomes part of the varnish. Rosin is made from the same material that goes into some varnishes.
5. Use a small amount at a time, gently buffing in small circles in a small area with a clean dry cloth.
6. Once you have a polished instrument, it may be a year or so before you will need to do it again. Just wipe the instrument off with a clean, dry cloth after playing. If you are seeing a lot of rosin dust on your instrument after you play, you are using too much rosin.
It depends also on where you mean, the stick or the frog. If you are talking about the hair, don't do anything, although keep in mind that you are not supposed to touch the hair when you hold the bow. If it is just the frog, unless it is a valuable old bow, you can use some 0000 steel wool and a drop or two of mineral or linseed oil. Don't get any oil on the hair and don't use the steel wool on the bow stick.
You should always be careful when cleaning and polishing an instrument. First of all you always clean an instrument before you polish it. You don't want to polish dirt into the finish. Some cleaners are dangerous to use on some finishes, without trying it first on an inconspicuous spot, like on the side by the chinrest, you won't know how it will react. Most commercial cleaners aren't that effective, keep in mind that violins other than cheap student ones are varnished, this varnish is made up of gums and resins. Cleaners have some sort of solvents in them to break down the dirt; these solvents can also dissolve varnish. I once saw several inches of varnish slide off of a modern Italian violin that was left too close to a rag with alcohol on it. Many professional violin shops use Xylene to clean violins; this is a very dangerous chemical to breath and must be used very carefully. As far as polishing goes, most commercial polishes contain oil - to make things shiny. If there are any open edges or cracks in the instrument, the polish can get into those spaces and make it very difficult to repair. I would recommend that you have the local violin shop do a cleaning and polish. If after it is done, you just use a soft cloth to clean your violin before you put it away each time, that cleaning can last for years. If you are getting lots of rosin dust on your instrument each time you play, you are using too much rosin.
If you want to clean and polish your instrument yourself here are some things to think about.
1. Always check your instrument for open edges and cracks before you polish as doing so may prevent the proper repair of your instrument.
2. If the instrument has a lot of rosin and dirt, you should take it to the violin shop and have it professionally cleaned.
3. Never use any household cleaners or wood polishes on an instrument. Only use specially designed ones for instruments. Never get alcohol near your instrument. Professionals will use Xylene to clean, but it is very bad to breath and can cause cancer, so do it outside and just small amounts on a clean cloth. Start in an inconspicuous spot. Many professionals will use Renaissance Wax to polish; it is similar to a paste automotive wax but has no oils in it.
4. Don’t use a one thing does both polish and cleaner or you will be polishing the dirt into the varnish and it will get trapped and never come off. The longer that rosin sits on the varnished surfaced the more it becomes part of the varnish. Rosin is made from the same material that goes into some varnishes.
5. Use a small amount at a time, gently buffing in small circles in a small area with a clean dry cloth.
6. Once you have a polished instrument, it may be a year or so before you will need to do it again. Just wipe the instrument off with a clean, dry cloth after playing. If you are seeing a lot of rosin dust on your instrument after you play, you are using too much rosin.
How to clean a brass trumpet
use
a cleaning snake designed specifically for cleaning a trumpet. You can
buy one at any music store. First, disassemble the trumpet. Unscrew
the valve caps that keep them in the casing and remove them. Remove the
bottom caps as well. Take out the tuning slide, first second, and
third valve slides. Let everything soak in luke warm soapy water
(bathtub works best) for 10-15 minutes. This will help loosen any gunk
and grime that's in the horn. Now use the snake to clean out any piping
on the horn, including the slides. I personally don't put my valves in
the water. I don't think it will hurt the springs or felt pads, it's
just not something I do. I clean the valves with a wash cloth and try
to get gunk out of the ports with a q-tip or by using a wash cloth
wrapped around a pen. Use the cloth to wipe off any grease from the
slides, as well.
When everything is clean, dry off the horn as best you can. You do not need to let it completely dry before you reassemble it. Spread a thin layer of slide grease on the tuning slide and push it all the way in. Remove it and spread the grease out again. You want to have a thin layer on both the slide and the inside of the lead pipe so the slide will move easily enough, but won't come out of place without touching it. Do not use valve oil on it. Do the same thing with remaining slides. To properly oil your valves, apply the oil before placing them back in their casings. You may want to put them in, push them a few times, and take them back out to re-oil them. I always like to put a dab of slide grease in the threads of the valve caps so they won't get stuck shut. It's that simple.
You should also clean your mouthpiece...more often than you clean your trumpet. They make mouthpiece brushes but pipe cleaners will work ok, too.
Clean your mouthpiece about once a week. If you're playing every day, clean your horn thoroughly once every 4-6 months. If you eat or drink while you play or right before you play, you'll have to clean it more often.
When everything is clean, dry off the horn as best you can. You do not need to let it completely dry before you reassemble it. Spread a thin layer of slide grease on the tuning slide and push it all the way in. Remove it and spread the grease out again. You want to have a thin layer on both the slide and the inside of the lead pipe so the slide will move easily enough, but won't come out of place without touching it. Do not use valve oil on it. Do the same thing with remaining slides. To properly oil your valves, apply the oil before placing them back in their casings. You may want to put them in, push them a few times, and take them back out to re-oil them. I always like to put a dab of slide grease in the threads of the valve caps so they won't get stuck shut. It's that simple.
You should also clean your mouthpiece...more often than you clean your trumpet. They make mouthpiece brushes but pipe cleaners will work ok, too.
Clean your mouthpiece about once a week. If you're playing every day, clean your horn thoroughly once every 4-6 months. If you eat or drink while you play or right before you play, you'll have to clean it more often.
How to clean the leather lounge
Household cleaners should always be avoided when cleaning leather as
most of them will contain harsh chemicals that can damage the leather
finish. Always use specifically formulated cleaners and care products
to avoid costly mistakes and repair bills.
Keep your leather clean by protecting it with a leather protector and then regular cleaning.
Adding 'conditioners' which generally contain oils and waxes will change the appearance of
your leather over time as dirt will build up on the surface and cause a sheen.
Using the correct care methods and products will not alter the factory finish.
The type of leather you have is 'coated' leather. This is essentially a 'painted' leather
with a clear coat finish over the top. The leather may or may not be dyed through with
aniline dyes prior to the finish coating.
Essentially it is this top coating that needs looking after.
Cleaning is vitally important as the top coat will wear away if allowed to become dirty.
Dirt on the surface will also become ground into the finish by constant abrassion.
'Conditioners', balms, feeds etc (traditionally oil and wax based) cannot penetrate this
finish so are not worth applying - they can also leave behind residues on the finish which
will only attract more dirt if allowed to remain. 'Conditioners' will not do any
protecting on leather even if they say they do as there will not be enough active
ingredient in them to do anything.
A protector will make the finish easier to clean and also inhibit dye transfer etc
on pale coloured leathers.
Leather however finished has to remain breathable and it will allow the movement of
moisture back and forth (transpiration) so the use of water based cleaners and
protectors will keep the leather correctly hydrated which is essentail to keeping it in
good condition.
The routine for correct care should be
Protect from new
Maintain with a regular clean or maintenance product
Deep clean with a foam cleaner once or twice a year
Simple steps of cleaning & protecting will prolong the life of the finish on the leather
Hope this helps
Judyb
Leather Care Consultant
Keep your leather clean by protecting it with a leather protector and then regular cleaning.
Adding 'conditioners' which generally contain oils and waxes will change the appearance of
your leather over time as dirt will build up on the surface and cause a sheen.
Using the correct care methods and products will not alter the factory finish.
The type of leather you have is 'coated' leather. This is essentially a 'painted' leather
with a clear coat finish over the top. The leather may or may not be dyed through with
aniline dyes prior to the finish coating.
Essentially it is this top coating that needs looking after.
Cleaning is vitally important as the top coat will wear away if allowed to become dirty.
Dirt on the surface will also become ground into the finish by constant abrassion.
'Conditioners', balms, feeds etc (traditionally oil and wax based) cannot penetrate this
finish so are not worth applying - they can also leave behind residues on the finish which
will only attract more dirt if allowed to remain. 'Conditioners' will not do any
protecting on leather even if they say they do as there will not be enough active
ingredient in them to do anything.
A protector will make the finish easier to clean and also inhibit dye transfer etc
on pale coloured leathers.
Leather however finished has to remain breathable and it will allow the movement of
moisture back and forth (transpiration) so the use of water based cleaners and
protectors will keep the leather correctly hydrated which is essentail to keeping it in
good condition.
The routine for correct care should be
Protect from new
Maintain with a regular clean or maintenance product
Deep clean with a foam cleaner once or twice a year
Simple steps of cleaning & protecting will prolong the life of the finish on the leather
Hope this helps
Judyb
Leather Care Consultant
How to clean a saddle
I presume this is leather.
First assess the leather - is it looking dry, it sould be flexible without being soft that you'd stretch the leather.
If it appears dry you need to not only clean it but apply some saddle oil - this is called dressing the leather. If you're unsure how too clean it I'd imagine it is also at the stage of needing dressing.
All new saddles and bridles need regular dressing and cleaning to make them flexible.
For a new saddle you get some saddle oil and pour about 1-2 Table spoons onto the rag (soft rag old bit of towel or soft tea towel) and rub this in on the front and underside of the leather. You'd need to reaply oil to the rag each time it becomes dry. So for a new saddle you can use quite a lot of oil.
For older gear. Take a cloth that is wet and almost completely wring it out, use this to take all the dirt off the saddle, top, bottom, between flaps etc and including girth points. Some times you need quite a wet cloth to clean the girth.
Then assess if it needs dressing - an older saddle if it's been previously well looked after may only need a little oil, or none. If the saddle leather is very soft and a little baggy looking (stretched where the rider sits, or heavily stretched where the leg goes) you could only give the breifest amount of oil to it. Otherwise it would result in further stretching.
Lastly and best product to put on next is good old fashioned saddle soap, the glycerean in this product protects the saddle, helps maintain elasticity in the leather and doesn't leave the saddle so slippery that you can't grip onto it with your jods.
There is only one way to correctly apply this. Use either a sponge or a soft cloth (a towel is acceptable, I found old nappies okay - best is a sponge). This part is important, you damped the sponge/cloth in warm water and squeeze most of the water out. Now rub this cloth vigerously over the soap it sould become white and a little throffy, just pin head bubbles. If it is still to dry add a little more water to your cloth. If it is getting too sloppy and bubbly it is too watery and you will dry out the leather instead of condition it, so squeeze your cloth then re apply more soap. Once you have your cloth with some of this white soap on it you rub it into your leather - it's quite quick, you just rub it over. Then you get more white soap on your cloth and repeat on the outside and inside of the saddle - all over. Once you have finished if there is any white left on the saddle - which possible means you've use a little too much. Just get a dry clean cloth a wipe the excess away.
First assess the leather - is it looking dry, it sould be flexible without being soft that you'd stretch the leather.
If it appears dry you need to not only clean it but apply some saddle oil - this is called dressing the leather. If you're unsure how too clean it I'd imagine it is also at the stage of needing dressing.
All new saddles and bridles need regular dressing and cleaning to make them flexible.
For a new saddle you get some saddle oil and pour about 1-2 Table spoons onto the rag (soft rag old bit of towel or soft tea towel) and rub this in on the front and underside of the leather. You'd need to reaply oil to the rag each time it becomes dry. So for a new saddle you can use quite a lot of oil.
For older gear. Take a cloth that is wet and almost completely wring it out, use this to take all the dirt off the saddle, top, bottom, between flaps etc and including girth points. Some times you need quite a wet cloth to clean the girth.
Then assess if it needs dressing - an older saddle if it's been previously well looked after may only need a little oil, or none. If the saddle leather is very soft and a little baggy looking (stretched where the rider sits, or heavily stretched where the leg goes) you could only give the breifest amount of oil to it. Otherwise it would result in further stretching.
Lastly and best product to put on next is good old fashioned saddle soap, the glycerean in this product protects the saddle, helps maintain elasticity in the leather and doesn't leave the saddle so slippery that you can't grip onto it with your jods.
There is only one way to correctly apply this. Use either a sponge or a soft cloth (a towel is acceptable, I found old nappies okay - best is a sponge). This part is important, you damped the sponge/cloth in warm water and squeeze most of the water out. Now rub this cloth vigerously over the soap it sould become white and a little throffy, just pin head bubbles. If it is still to dry add a little more water to your cloth. If it is getting too sloppy and bubbly it is too watery and you will dry out the leather instead of condition it, so squeeze your cloth then re apply more soap. Once you have your cloth with some of this white soap on it you rub it into your leather - it's quite quick, you just rub it over. Then you get more white soap on your cloth and repeat on the outside and inside of the saddle - all over. Once you have finished if there is any white left on the saddle - which possible means you've use a little too much. Just get a dry clean cloth a wipe the excess away.
How to clean a Hi point 380 acp gun
You
can find instructions by typing in www.hi-pointfirearms.com or simply
typing in Hi-Point Model CF on the search thingy on your computer.
The CF model is the newer one with a one piece polymer frame.
An older model I believe had an aluminum alloy frame with plastic grips held on by a single screw each.
On whichever model you have, look at the back of the slide.
There you will see a round ball looking thingy. This round ball holds the slide in place and guides the slide in it's trip sliding back and fourth. This piece is the key to removing the slide. Lift the slide up just high enough for the slide to clear the ball. Not now. After the next few sentences.
Do not lift slide higher or else you break the gun.
To remove the slide, (the barrel cover)...
remove magazine
pull slide back to verify no live round is in chamber, then...
carefully pull slide back until it stops, then lift slide up like 1/4 inch...
then push slide forward off frame.
On the older model, you can also remove the screws holding the plastic grips on the hand grip to clean parts.
You can do a good to marvelous job cleaning the gunpowder debris and other stuff now.
I recommend not taking the handgun apart any farther unless you have a good schematic and assembly/disassembly instructions.
If you are unsure of your gunsmith abilities, you can do a good job by simply making sure firearm and magazine do not have any ammo.
Remove magazine.
Lock slide back.
You can now clean the chamber and barrel, plus the magazine well, (or where the magazine lives and works at with magazine removed from rest of gun).
To clean the magazine, (or clip), with the thing containing no ammo, simply remove the bottom; the spring and follower (the thing the bullets lay on) come out through the bottom. And then you are left holding the magazine body itself. Clean. Oil lightly.
Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly.
The CF model is the newer one with a one piece polymer frame.
An older model I believe had an aluminum alloy frame with plastic grips held on by a single screw each.
On whichever model you have, look at the back of the slide.
There you will see a round ball looking thingy. This round ball holds the slide in place and guides the slide in it's trip sliding back and fourth. This piece is the key to removing the slide. Lift the slide up just high enough for the slide to clear the ball. Not now. After the next few sentences.
Do not lift slide higher or else you break the gun.
To remove the slide, (the barrel cover)...
remove magazine
pull slide back to verify no live round is in chamber, then...
carefully pull slide back until it stops, then lift slide up like 1/4 inch...
then push slide forward off frame.
On the older model, you can also remove the screws holding the plastic grips on the hand grip to clean parts.
You can do a good to marvelous job cleaning the gunpowder debris and other stuff now.
I recommend not taking the handgun apart any farther unless you have a good schematic and assembly/disassembly instructions.
If you are unsure of your gunsmith abilities, you can do a good job by simply making sure firearm and magazine do not have any ammo.
Remove magazine.
Lock slide back.
You can now clean the chamber and barrel, plus the magazine well, (or where the magazine lives and works at with magazine removed from rest of gun).
To clean the magazine, (or clip), with the thing containing no ammo, simply remove the bottom; the spring and follower (the thing the bullets lay on) come out through the bottom. And then you are left holding the magazine body itself. Clean. Oil lightly.
Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly.
How to clean Rifle
basically, you can use any oil on the outside to preserve the wood and
protect the metal, especially from fingerprint oils which will quickly
eat off the bluing
After you fire it, you need to clean the lead and burnt powder fowling from the barrel, that requires a general purpose gun solvent
You can buy a kit that contains special gun oil, general gun solvent, patches, rods, and ends. Ill find one and link it, be right back!
http://www.productwizard.com/hoppes-u22b...
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.ex...
Now remember, you don't need to clean the inside of a gun except for after you fire it...any more than you need to take clean dishes out of the cupboard to wash them. It's not like moping the kitchen floor or vaccumming the living room, you don't need to clean it unless you get it dirty. Now, whenever you touch the outside you should either just hold it by the stock, or make sure to wipe it down with a few drops of gunoil on a rag.
Now, for actually cleaning after shooting....the other poster is right it is best to clean from the breech to the muzzle, however I have found that boresnakes don't work that great. I am also a bit of a cleaning minimalist. Remember, many .22LR rifles ahve been used for years and fired thousands of shells and no one ever cleaned them. I clean my ruger 10/22 from the muzzle, just try not to bang the handle into the muzzle crown, and try to hold the rod centered in the barrel. I do that by holding the tip of the barrel with my right hand in a fist, but have my pointer finger and thumb out and using them to guide the rod as the left hand pushes.
To start...
MAKE SURE THE GUN IS UNLOADED.
Drop the magazine out, work the bolt a few times to be sure, and then lock the bolt back in the open position
Assemble the rod. Look for the tip that has a point on it. (if your kit doesn't have one, just put the slotted end on, but don't use the slot) Grab an empty soda bottle or other disposable container for putting your trash into. I use the lid of an old jar to hold the solvent. Pour a little bit of solvent onto the jar lid (some people dip into the solvent bottle, but that can contaminate and weaken the potency of the whole thing).
Grab a wad of tissue paper or an old rag, and with the bolt locked open, put it in the chamber, so that any gunk and dirty fluid from the barrel is caught by that. A sock rag up from the empty magazine well works wonderful.
Grab a patch, dip the middle of the patch into the solvent. You want it wet, but not dripping. Hold the patch open at the muzzle and push it into the barrel using the assembled rod. I hold onto the rod itself, it is easy to break a rod where it screws together when pushing it in the first few inches. After that grab the handle and push it through the barrel, slowly, until you pop it out the other end. Then grab that dirty patch and shove it in the pop bottle you used for trash. (This is why i don't use the slot, don't want to drag a dirty patch back up)
Now wait about 5 minutes for the solvent to work.
Push a dry patch through, or two dry patches. They should come out covered in gunk. Run another wet patch through.
At this point you can either let it sit for 5 minutes and run some more dry patches, or you can screw on the wire brush attachment and make a few passes. Note, with the bursh, go ALL the way down and out, and then pull it back up. Don't change directions when in the barrel.
Repeat the wet patch then 2 dry patches. Eventually if you do that long enough the first dry patch will come out spotless, but that is too much work, and really every pass of the rod through the barrel does some wear. I do 1 wet 2 dry, 1 wet 2 passes with the brush then 2 dry, and then 1 wet 2 dryx3 (so a total of 5 wet 10 dry.
Pull out the rag, grab a patch and put just a little solvent on it, and wipe down the action area of the gun. You don't want it dripping or even close to dripping, then wipe out the area with a dry one or two. Put a drop of oil on the slide of the bolt, and work it a few times.
Now wipe down all the metal and wood with some drops of oil on a rag, pick the gun up only by the stock, and return it to storage.
Now as you are new, memorize these 4 rules, and you will be safe. Forget them and you may well end up accidentally shooting yourself or someone else
"The Four Rules"
1.Treat all guns as if the are loaded, with absolute care and respect. (if anyone hands you an unloaded gun, check for yourself, or have htem show you how)
2. Keep your finger off the trigger until your sights are on target and you are ready to fire.
3. Never let the muzzle of the gun point at any person or anything you aren't willing to see destroyed. (this includes 'unloaded guns', be especially careful when picking up a gun, it is easy to forget and point it at people just as you pick it up)
4. Be sure of your target AND what is behind it before you shoot.
After you fire it, you need to clean the lead and burnt powder fowling from the barrel, that requires a general purpose gun solvent
You can buy a kit that contains special gun oil, general gun solvent, patches, rods, and ends. Ill find one and link it, be right back!
http://www.productwizard.com/hoppes-u22b...
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.ex...
Now remember, you don't need to clean the inside of a gun except for after you fire it...any more than you need to take clean dishes out of the cupboard to wash them. It's not like moping the kitchen floor or vaccumming the living room, you don't need to clean it unless you get it dirty. Now, whenever you touch the outside you should either just hold it by the stock, or make sure to wipe it down with a few drops of gunoil on a rag.
Now, for actually cleaning after shooting....the other poster is right it is best to clean from the breech to the muzzle, however I have found that boresnakes don't work that great. I am also a bit of a cleaning minimalist. Remember, many .22LR rifles ahve been used for years and fired thousands of shells and no one ever cleaned them. I clean my ruger 10/22 from the muzzle, just try not to bang the handle into the muzzle crown, and try to hold the rod centered in the barrel. I do that by holding the tip of the barrel with my right hand in a fist, but have my pointer finger and thumb out and using them to guide the rod as the left hand pushes.
To start...
MAKE SURE THE GUN IS UNLOADED.
Drop the magazine out, work the bolt a few times to be sure, and then lock the bolt back in the open position
Assemble the rod. Look for the tip that has a point on it. (if your kit doesn't have one, just put the slotted end on, but don't use the slot) Grab an empty soda bottle or other disposable container for putting your trash into. I use the lid of an old jar to hold the solvent. Pour a little bit of solvent onto the jar lid (some people dip into the solvent bottle, but that can contaminate and weaken the potency of the whole thing).
Grab a wad of tissue paper or an old rag, and with the bolt locked open, put it in the chamber, so that any gunk and dirty fluid from the barrel is caught by that. A sock rag up from the empty magazine well works wonderful.
Grab a patch, dip the middle of the patch into the solvent. You want it wet, but not dripping. Hold the patch open at the muzzle and push it into the barrel using the assembled rod. I hold onto the rod itself, it is easy to break a rod where it screws together when pushing it in the first few inches. After that grab the handle and push it through the barrel, slowly, until you pop it out the other end. Then grab that dirty patch and shove it in the pop bottle you used for trash. (This is why i don't use the slot, don't want to drag a dirty patch back up)
Now wait about 5 minutes for the solvent to work.
Push a dry patch through, or two dry patches. They should come out covered in gunk. Run another wet patch through.
At this point you can either let it sit for 5 minutes and run some more dry patches, or you can screw on the wire brush attachment and make a few passes. Note, with the bursh, go ALL the way down and out, and then pull it back up. Don't change directions when in the barrel.
Repeat the wet patch then 2 dry patches. Eventually if you do that long enough the first dry patch will come out spotless, but that is too much work, and really every pass of the rod through the barrel does some wear. I do 1 wet 2 dry, 1 wet 2 passes with the brush then 2 dry, and then 1 wet 2 dryx3 (so a total of 5 wet 10 dry.
Pull out the rag, grab a patch and put just a little solvent on it, and wipe down the action area of the gun. You don't want it dripping or even close to dripping, then wipe out the area with a dry one or two. Put a drop of oil on the slide of the bolt, and work it a few times.
Now wipe down all the metal and wood with some drops of oil on a rag, pick the gun up only by the stock, and return it to storage.
Now as you are new, memorize these 4 rules, and you will be safe. Forget them and you may well end up accidentally shooting yourself or someone else
"The Four Rules"
1.Treat all guns as if the are loaded, with absolute care and respect. (if anyone hands you an unloaded gun, check for yourself, or have htem show you how)
2. Keep your finger off the trigger until your sights are on target and you are ready to fire.
3. Never let the muzzle of the gun point at any person or anything you aren't willing to see destroyed. (this includes 'unloaded guns', be especially careful when picking up a gun, it is easy to forget and point it at people just as you pick it up)
4. Be sure of your target AND what is behind it before you shoot.
How to clean flat screen hd tv
DONT
USE GLASS CLEANER it has ingredients that will ruin the plastic
covering on your tv they are made for glass, Windex is the worst, go to
an electronics store and buy a micro fiber cloth and lcd screen cleaner
make sure it a good reliable brand you dont want to cheap out on this
one you risk runing a expensive tv. i would get a monster lcd cleaning
kit which is a bit pricey $30 but you will thank yourself when you tv
dosent get all faded and ruined from using a shirt and windex to clean
it, i would stay away from cheap brands too.
How to clean my magnum 350 filter
1/ turn it off
2 / close both sides of the disconnect valves
3/ split the valves apart by turning counter-clockwise
4/ now you can remove the canister from the motor base/ pick straight up on it
5/ open both valves on top of the canister/ turn it upside down over the kitchen sink,,this will empty all the water from it
6/ unsnap the 4 metal clips around the top,,, remove the top,,,, all the yuk and spooge is right there
7/ lift out the basket,,,, pull the blue filter element off and discard it,,,you can cut it off with a scissors carefully so you dont have to touch the spooge too much
8/ dont worry about touching the spooge,,, it's just a lot of fish crap,,,,, it washes off
9/ remove the basket cover/top,,,empty out the charcoal
10/ rinse off the basket and top with tap water
11/ fill the basket with new charcoal,,,, rinse with tap water to remove black dust
12/ be careful with the gaskets and 'O' rings,,,, they have to go back in the exact same position as it came apart
13/ rinse off the internals of the canister with tap water
14/ be careful that the impeller at the bottom/ inside goes back into place ( it's the yellow twirlie thingee),,,
15/ then the internals go back in original position,,, it only fits one way
16/ the basket goes back in/ the flat side toward the internal black pipe
17/ the internal black pipe goes into the hole in the canister top/ rubber gasket on top of the black pipe
18/ then the top goes on,,,there i a knob on the top and a rounded slot on the bottom,, they must match up and the black pipe goes into place
19/ snap the metal clips around the top,,, oh, there is a big rubber 'O' ring that goes between the top and can
20/ now you prime the pump,,,, using aquarium water,,, pour or use a small hose to put water into the,,, OUT,,, valve,,,, both valves open,,, water fills from the bottom and the other valve open allows air to escape,,, when water comes out the ,,,IN,,, valve side,, the canister is full,, and no air trapped inside
21/ now close both valves
22/ make sure the outside of the canister is dry,,, dont get the motor wet
23/ mount the can back on the motor and connect the other half of the valves together,,,making sure the IN is IN and the OUT is OUT
24/ open up all the valve halves
25/ turn it back on,,,, it might blow a little air fom the hoses,, once that comes out ,,,it is running
now you are right back where you started,,, except the spooge is gone
2 / close both sides of the disconnect valves
3/ split the valves apart by turning counter-clockwise
4/ now you can remove the canister from the motor base/ pick straight up on it
5/ open both valves on top of the canister/ turn it upside down over the kitchen sink,,this will empty all the water from it
6/ unsnap the 4 metal clips around the top,,, remove the top,,,, all the yuk and spooge is right there
7/ lift out the basket,,,, pull the blue filter element off and discard it,,,you can cut it off with a scissors carefully so you dont have to touch the spooge too much
8/ dont worry about touching the spooge,,, it's just a lot of fish crap,,,,, it washes off
9/ remove the basket cover/top,,,empty out the charcoal
10/ rinse off the basket and top with tap water
11/ fill the basket with new charcoal,,,, rinse with tap water to remove black dust
12/ be careful with the gaskets and 'O' rings,,,, they have to go back in the exact same position as it came apart
13/ rinse off the internals of the canister with tap water
14/ be careful that the impeller at the bottom/ inside goes back into place ( it's the yellow twirlie thingee),,,
15/ then the internals go back in original position,,, it only fits one way
16/ the basket goes back in/ the flat side toward the internal black pipe
17/ the internal black pipe goes into the hole in the canister top/ rubber gasket on top of the black pipe
18/ then the top goes on,,,there i a knob on the top and a rounded slot on the bottom,, they must match up and the black pipe goes into place
19/ snap the metal clips around the top,,, oh, there is a big rubber 'O' ring that goes between the top and can
20/ now you prime the pump,,,, using aquarium water,,, pour or use a small hose to put water into the,,, OUT,,, valve,,,, both valves open,,, water fills from the bottom and the other valve open allows air to escape,,, when water comes out the ,,,IN,,, valve side,, the canister is full,, and no air trapped inside
21/ now close both valves
22/ make sure the outside of the canister is dry,,, dont get the motor wet
23/ mount the can back on the motor and connect the other half of the valves together,,,making sure the IN is IN and the OUT is OUT
24/ open up all the valve halves
25/ turn it back on,,,, it might blow a little air fom the hoses,, once that comes out ,,,it is running
now you are right back where you started,,, except the spooge is gone
How to clean a lacrosse ball
To clean the ball, take a wire brush, or something like that, and some
soap. Just scrub until it is clean. This also helps if the ball is
getting "slippery". A slippery ball is very hard to throw with, and is
very annoying. Rather than getting more balls, just clean them.
Source(s):
http://www.lacrosse-information.com
How to clean Uggs/Bearpaw boots
This
article is a comprehensive how-to on cleaning Ugg Australia Shoe
Products. After reading this you will be able to bring your old Ugg
Boots or Shoes back to life. Using these easy cleaning techniques your
Ugg Boots will look brand new. Ugg Boot Cleaning is a lucrative
business, and can be done with very little capital, and from your own
home.
Step 1Use cold water to lightly moisten the outside of the boots only. Do not submerge them in water. If you soak the boots you will cause them to lose their shape.
Step 2Once the boots are moist on the outside, apply your Ugg Cleaner Conditioner to the surface of the boots. You should dilute the cleaning solution using 50/50. Take your sponge with the cleaner on it, and rub it gently into the surface until it foams. Once you have scrubbed the entire surface, rinse lightly.
Step 3Once you are finished cleaning, stuff your boots or shoes with paper towels to hold the structure of the boot. The weight of the boots when they are wet may cause the boots to lose their shape. The paper towels will absorb some of the moisture that has come through the outer shell of the boots. Once you fill them with paper towels put them in a cool place with low light to let them dry. This process will take approximately 24 hours
Step 1Use cold water to lightly moisten the outside of the boots only. Do not submerge them in water. If you soak the boots you will cause them to lose their shape.
Step 2Once the boots are moist on the outside, apply your Ugg Cleaner Conditioner to the surface of the boots. You should dilute the cleaning solution using 50/50. Take your sponge with the cleaner on it, and rub it gently into the surface until it foams. Once you have scrubbed the entire surface, rinse lightly.
Step 3Once you are finished cleaning, stuff your boots or shoes with paper towels to hold the structure of the boot. The weight of the boots when they are wet may cause the boots to lose their shape. The paper towels will absorb some of the moisture that has come through the outer shell of the boots. Once you fill them with paper towels put them in a cool place with low light to let them dry. This process will take approximately 24 hours
Step 1Use cold water to lightly moisten the outside of the boots only. Do not submerge them in water. If you soak the boots you will cause them to lose their shape.
Step 2Once the boots are moist on the outside, apply your Ugg Cleaner Conditioner to the surface of the boots. You should dilute the cleaning solution using 50/50. Take your sponge with the cleaner on it, and rub it gently into the surface until it foams. Once you have scrubbed the entire surface, rinse lightly.
Step 3Once you are finished cleaning, stuff your boots or shoes with paper towels to hold the structure of the boot. The weight of the boots when they are wet may cause the boots to lose their shape. The paper towels will absorb some of the moisture that has come through the outer shell of the boots. Once you fill them with paper towels put them in a cool place with low light to let them dry. This process will take approximately 24 hours
Step 1Use cold water to lightly moisten the outside of the boots only. Do not submerge them in water. If you soak the boots you will cause them to lose their shape.
Step 2Once the boots are moist on the outside, apply your Ugg Cleaner Conditioner to the surface of the boots. You should dilute the cleaning solution using 50/50. Take your sponge with the cleaner on it, and rub it gently into the surface until it foams. Once you have scrubbed the entire surface, rinse lightly.
Step 3Once you are finished cleaning, stuff your boots or shoes with paper towels to hold the structure of the boot. The weight of the boots when they are wet may cause the boots to lose their shape. The paper towels will absorb some of the moisture that has come through the outer shell of the boots. Once you fill them with paper towels put them in a cool place with low light to let them dry. This process will take approximately 24 hours
Source(s):
http://www.ehow.com/how_4930654_clean-ug...
How to clean white converse
http://www.mademan.com/mm/how-clean-white-converse-shoes.html
1.Get a clean rag (or toothbrush) and a solution of mild soap and water.
2.Dip the rag (or toothbrush)into the water and scrub the rubber part of the sneakers.
3.To clean the fabric part,it is best to wash it in the machine with other things of the same shade.
4.If you don't want to risk fading your Converse shoes, than you can use the same solution of soap and water that you used for the rubber part, and a toothbrush. Use the toothbrush, dipped in the soapy water, to gently rub away at the stains and dirt.
5.Dry it only indoors, in a warm, dry place; do not machine dry, because the rubber can come off. Sometimes the sneakers even shrink due to machine drying.
6.Enjoy your now clean Converse sneakers!
1.Get a clean rag (or toothbrush) and a solution of mild soap and water.
2.Dip the rag (or toothbrush)into the water and scrub the rubber part of the sneakers.
3.To clean the fabric part,it is best to wash it in the machine with other things of the same shade.
4.If you don't want to risk fading your Converse shoes, than you can use the same solution of soap and water that you used for the rubber part, and a toothbrush. Use the toothbrush, dipped in the soapy water, to gently rub away at the stains and dirt.
5.Dry it only indoors, in a warm, dry place; do not machine dry, because the rubber can come off. Sometimes the sneakers even shrink due to machine drying.
6.Enjoy your now clean Converse sneakers!
How to clean egg yolk of sofa fabric
If it is a fresh spill, the best thing is to use warm water and a rag,
and a dry rag. Use the wet rag first then the dry. Repeat, trying to use
the warm water rag in the repeated steps to both soak and scrub. The
dry rag to check your work, rinse the wet rag every couple of attempts.
If this does not work, use a stain treatment in combination with the
warm wet rag and dry rag. Shout will work, there are other similar stain
removers you can buy. If you get it fresh and soon enough, the warm rag
and dry rag should be enough. Also, you can use baking soda and club
water in lieu of a stain treatment if you don't have the stain treater
on hand.
How to clean a green pool
How to Get Rid of Green Water in a Swimming pool
Is the water in your swimming pool green? Depending on weather conditions it can happen fast - almost overnight. Your water looks fine one day and then you get up the next and there it is ugly, green water. The green color you're seeing is a full-scale algae bloom. Algae are microscopic plant life that get into pools by rain or are carried in by dust. Some of them are free floating while others latch on and cling to the sides of the pool. Either way you can clear up your pool water, so don't despair - in a few days your water will be crystal clear again. Does this Spark an idea?
Other People Are Reading
How to Change Green Pool Water
How to Clear Green Algaecide From a Swimming Pool
Print this article
Things You'll Need
Pool water chemical test kit
Unstabilized chlorine (Shock)
Pool scrub brush
Instructions
1 What you'll need
Pool water chemical test kit
Unstabilized chlorine
Pool scrub brush
2 Use your test kit to determine the pH level in your pool water. It should be between 7.2 and 7.6. If it is outside of that range add pH Up or pH Down to adjust the level.
3 Scrub the sides and bottom of the pool with the brush to loosen any clinging algae.
4 Add unstabilized Chlorine granules (Shock) to the pool. The amount of Chlorine you add will depend on the capacity of your pool (150 grams for every 10,000 liters or approximately 5 ounces of chlorine for every 2500 gallons of water).
5 Turn on your pump and run your system for a day allowing the Chlorinated water to circulate and get rid of the algae.
6 Vacuum the white residue from the bottom of the pool the next day. The water should have cleared substantially, if it is still looking green repeat the "shock" process.
7 Clean your filter to remove any alga residue.
8 Rebalance your pool water.
Tips & Warnings
Regularly cleaning and vacuuming your pool as well ensuring the water is kept in balance will minimize the chance of your water going green. (pH should be between 7.2 and 7.6 while the free available Chlorine level should be between 1.0 and 3.0 PPM (parts per million).
In periods of hot weather or when you have higher than normal swimmer load, "shocking" your pool every two weeks will keep algae away.
Pool supply stores also sell algaecide you can add to your pool water. These chemicals are usually safe to add at any time (even just before you swim), and they do help control algae
After "shocking" your pool don't swim for at least a day. The high levels of chlorine can cause eye or skin irritation as well as damaging bathing suits.
Read more: How to Get Rid of Green Water in a Swimming pool | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_1000700_green-wa...
Is the water in your swimming pool green? Depending on weather conditions it can happen fast - almost overnight. Your water looks fine one day and then you get up the next and there it is ugly, green water. The green color you're seeing is a full-scale algae bloom. Algae are microscopic plant life that get into pools by rain or are carried in by dust. Some of them are free floating while others latch on and cling to the sides of the pool. Either way you can clear up your pool water, so don't despair - in a few days your water will be crystal clear again. Does this Spark an idea?
Other People Are Reading
How to Change Green Pool Water
How to Clear Green Algaecide From a Swimming Pool
Print this article
Things You'll Need
Pool water chemical test kit
Unstabilized chlorine (Shock)
Pool scrub brush
Instructions
1 What you'll need
Pool water chemical test kit
Unstabilized chlorine
Pool scrub brush
2 Use your test kit to determine the pH level in your pool water. It should be between 7.2 and 7.6. If it is outside of that range add pH Up or pH Down to adjust the level.
3 Scrub the sides and bottom of the pool with the brush to loosen any clinging algae.
4 Add unstabilized Chlorine granules (Shock) to the pool. The amount of Chlorine you add will depend on the capacity of your pool (150 grams for every 10,000 liters or approximately 5 ounces of chlorine for every 2500 gallons of water).
5 Turn on your pump and run your system for a day allowing the Chlorinated water to circulate and get rid of the algae.
6 Vacuum the white residue from the bottom of the pool the next day. The water should have cleared substantially, if it is still looking green repeat the "shock" process.
7 Clean your filter to remove any alga residue.
8 Rebalance your pool water.
Tips & Warnings
Regularly cleaning and vacuuming your pool as well ensuring the water is kept in balance will minimize the chance of your water going green. (pH should be between 7.2 and 7.6 while the free available Chlorine level should be between 1.0 and 3.0 PPM (parts per million).
In periods of hot weather or when you have higher than normal swimmer load, "shocking" your pool every two weeks will keep algae away.
Pool supply stores also sell algaecide you can add to your pool water. These chemicals are usually safe to add at any time (even just before you swim), and they do help control algae
After "shocking" your pool don't swim for at least a day. The high levels of chlorine can cause eye or skin irritation as well as damaging bathing suits.
Read more: How to Get Rid of Green Water in a Swimming pool | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/how_1000700_green-wa...
How to clean canvas Sperry's
How
to clean Sperrys made of leather. Streaks can develop between the heels
of your Sperrys as your feet knock together when you walk. Stains can
also become imbedded in the leather upper of your topsiders. To clean
Sperrys made of leather, don’t use ordinary soap, which can damage the
leather or develop a second stain. Instead, use leather soap, which you
can find at shoe repair stores. To clean scuff marks, spray the soap on a
soft terrycloth then rub the affected areas thoroughly. To clean deep
set stains from your leather Sperrys, spray the soap directly on the
stain then rub the area with a soft terry cloth. Keep spraying the area
and turning the terry cloth over to a fresh side until you succeed in
cleaning your Sperrys thoroughly.
How to clean leather sofa
Using household products, cheap supermarket cleaners and 'old wives'
remedies are very short sighted when it comes to cleaning and caring for
leather and can become very costly in the long run as problems they
generally cause will be costly to put right. (although it does keep
people like ourselves busy as we rush round fixing problems caused by
using the wrong things!!!)
Firstly check the type of leather you have so that you understand the results that are possible:
http://www.lttleathercare.co.uk/whatkind...
You need to use a good quality water based foam leather cleaner. (LTT Leather Shampoo) With light coloured leather dye transfer from clothing can be a problem although using a good quality leather protector (LTT Leather Protect) will help inhibit this.
For dye transfer (which can be a real problem on pale coloured leathers) and ingrained dirt you may need a much stronger cleaner like Strong Cleaner or Maxi Cleaner (this should be used with caution)
DO NOT use anything containing oils, waxes or silicones. (Most 'conditioners' contain waxes or oils) and furniture polish (pledge) contains silicones which will eventually destroy the finish on the leather. Most car cleaners also contain oils or waxes so should not be used as they leave residues on the surface of the leather which attract more dirt which eventually leads to cracking.
BABY WIPES are the worst thing you can use as they will destroy the finish on your leather. This has been verified and proved to be the case. They are actually a very strong product and this is why they break down the finish. Leather is not like skin and should not be treated as such.
Saddle soap should never be usd on upholstery leather or garments it is meant for saddles which are very different from todays finished leathers.
A lot of leather wipes contain chemicals which will also destroy the finish or leave residues on the leather which will damage it. They are not cheap in the long run as you would need a lot to clean. A bottle of foam cleaner should do your car about 3-4 times.
Fairy liquid contains more salt these days to get dishes clean and this will break the finish down on your leather. This has been verified by the manufacturers (as with the baby wipes).
Magic Erasers should not be used unless you are going to renew the finish on you r leather. We have tested these recently and they sand away the top finish on the leather.
Lux flakes (although they used to be a good thing to use) now contain ingredients that will damage the finish on the leather and cause it to peel off like a skin (we have seen these happen hundreds of times at customers who have been ill advised by shops)
You should also follow cleaning with a good water based leather protector which will act like a 'scotchgard' and inhibit dirt and stains from being absorbed and make cleaning easier the next time. Conditioners are totally unnecessary and only a product push by manufacturers.
Dry leather needs rehydrating with water and oils and waxes should not be used as the natural oils do not dry out of leather. Wiping over with a damp cloth regularly will help to do this.
It is important to maintain a regular cleaning regime cleaning dirt off the surface regularly and inhibiting the absorption of body oils into the leather with a protector is the best way of doing this. The only 'moisturizer' a leather needs is from water.
The alternative is a brand new product on the market called Lazy Leather. This is the latest technology in cleaning and combines an effective cleaner with a protector. It is quick and easy to use and should be used as a maintenance product once your suite has been cleaned or from new if you have just bought it.
Using incorrect care products is usually the cause of deterioration in the leather as unfortunately most car care products contain waxes and oils or silicones which do not do the leather any good.
Further cleaning instructions and a care leaflet are available here:
http://www.lttleathercare.co.uk/freecare...
Firstly check the type of leather you have so that you understand the results that are possible:
http://www.lttleathercare.co.uk/whatkind...
You need to use a good quality water based foam leather cleaner. (LTT Leather Shampoo) With light coloured leather dye transfer from clothing can be a problem although using a good quality leather protector (LTT Leather Protect) will help inhibit this.
For dye transfer (which can be a real problem on pale coloured leathers) and ingrained dirt you may need a much stronger cleaner like Strong Cleaner or Maxi Cleaner (this should be used with caution)
DO NOT use anything containing oils, waxes or silicones. (Most 'conditioners' contain waxes or oils) and furniture polish (pledge) contains silicones which will eventually destroy the finish on the leather. Most car cleaners also contain oils or waxes so should not be used as they leave residues on the surface of the leather which attract more dirt which eventually leads to cracking.
BABY WIPES are the worst thing you can use as they will destroy the finish on your leather. This has been verified and proved to be the case. They are actually a very strong product and this is why they break down the finish. Leather is not like skin and should not be treated as such.
Saddle soap should never be usd on upholstery leather or garments it is meant for saddles which are very different from todays finished leathers.
A lot of leather wipes contain chemicals which will also destroy the finish or leave residues on the leather which will damage it. They are not cheap in the long run as you would need a lot to clean. A bottle of foam cleaner should do your car about 3-4 times.
Fairy liquid contains more salt these days to get dishes clean and this will break the finish down on your leather. This has been verified by the manufacturers (as with the baby wipes).
Magic Erasers should not be used unless you are going to renew the finish on you r leather. We have tested these recently and they sand away the top finish on the leather.
Lux flakes (although they used to be a good thing to use) now contain ingredients that will damage the finish on the leather and cause it to peel off like a skin (we have seen these happen hundreds of times at customers who have been ill advised by shops)
You should also follow cleaning with a good water based leather protector which will act like a 'scotchgard' and inhibit dirt and stains from being absorbed and make cleaning easier the next time. Conditioners are totally unnecessary and only a product push by manufacturers.
Dry leather needs rehydrating with water and oils and waxes should not be used as the natural oils do not dry out of leather. Wiping over with a damp cloth regularly will help to do this.
It is important to maintain a regular cleaning regime cleaning dirt off the surface regularly and inhibiting the absorption of body oils into the leather with a protector is the best way of doing this. The only 'moisturizer' a leather needs is from water.
The alternative is a brand new product on the market called Lazy Leather. This is the latest technology in cleaning and combines an effective cleaner with a protector. It is quick and easy to use and should be used as a maintenance product once your suite has been cleaned or from new if you have just bought it.
Using incorrect care products is usually the cause of deterioration in the leather as unfortunately most car care products contain waxes and oils or silicones which do not do the leather any good.
Further cleaning instructions and a care leaflet are available here:
http://www.lttleathercare.co.uk/freecare...
How to clean central air condition
The outdoor condenser coil would need to be washed out with water.
Turn the power off to the outdoor unit, should be a disconnect right there at the unit.
Washing through from the inside out is the best but depending on the unit it might require too much dis assembly so you could just wash from the outside and push it through the coil and it will drain out the drain holes in the bottom of the unit.
The indoor coil is much harder to clean and should be done by a professional if it needs to be cleaned.
Normally the indoor coil does not need cleaning due to air filters that keep the dirt out and the constant rinsing action that takes place when the a/c is in operation. However if filter have been left out at some point the evaporator coil becomes the filter and it will need to be cleaned.
Turn the power off to the outdoor unit, should be a disconnect right there at the unit.
Washing through from the inside out is the best but depending on the unit it might require too much dis assembly so you could just wash from the outside and push it through the coil and it will drain out the drain holes in the bottom of the unit.
The indoor coil is much harder to clean and should be done by a professional if it needs to be cleaned.
Normally the indoor coil does not need cleaning due to air filters that keep the dirt out and the constant rinsing action that takes place when the a/c is in operation. However if filter have been left out at some point the evaporator coil becomes the filter and it will need to be cleaned.
How to clean a laptops screen
The recipe is easy: Mix the Isopropyl alcohol and distilled water in
equal parts (50/50) inside an empty Windex-like bottle. Do not use tap
water! Doing so will leave white smears on your screen after cleaning it
up because of the dissolved minerals inside the water. When finished
mixing, just close the bottle using the "spray" adaptor that comes
attached to it.
Next, you will need to find a good, soft piece of microfiber cloth to clean your display. Avoid paper tissues at all cost! Using those on your screen would be just like scrubbing sandpaper on it and may scratch it permanently.
Now that we have everything we need, start by turning off your screen. Dampen your piece of soft cloth with your cleaning mixture and then wipe the display gently from top to bottom. Never spray liquid directly onto the LCD. When you're done, wait a few minutes to let your screen dry, and then turn it back on. Voila, you're done!
Next, you will need to find a good, soft piece of microfiber cloth to clean your display. Avoid paper tissues at all cost! Using those on your screen would be just like scrubbing sandpaper on it and may scratch it permanently.
Now that we have everything we need, start by turning off your screen. Dampen your piece of soft cloth with your cleaning mixture and then wipe the display gently from top to bottom. Never spray liquid directly onto the LCD. When you're done, wait a few minutes to let your screen dry, and then turn it back on. Voila, you're done!
Source(s):
http://geeksaresexy.blogspot.com/2007/01/how-to-properly-clean-your-lcd-screen.html
How to Clean Aluminum Siding
Pre-Cleaning Steps
Because you will be spraying water and cleaner all around your house, there are a few things to do to protect yourself and items around your house.
Close all windows and doors.
Turn off power to any outside electrical units such as lights, outlets, etc.
Cover plants such as shrubs or flowers to prevent the detergent from damaging them.
Cover any etched glass or metal that may be damaged by cleaning solutions.
Remove any other articles that may be in the way such as outdoor furniture or toys.
Check over the siding for signs of mold or mildew. If you’re unsure if it’s mold, place a drop of bleach on it. If it turns white, it’s mold; if it stays dark, it’s dirt.
Cleaning Aluminum Siding
You Will Need:
Laundry detergent
Water
Soft bristled brush and/or
Broom and old towels and/or
Sponge mop
Large buckets (5 gallon buckets work best)
Hose
Pressure washer (optional)
The Cleaning Process:
It will be easiest to work around your house in 3-5 foot sections.
Fill a large bucket with 4 gallons of water and mix in ¼ cup of laundry detergent.
Gather your cleaning tool, either a brush, mop or wrap an old towel around the head of a broom and secure with duct tape. You’ll want something with a long handle.
Begin by using the hose to spray away any loose dirt and debris. If you have a pressure washer available, that can be used in place of the hose and will likely lessen the amount of scrubbing needed. Be sure to use a low-pressure setting so it doesn’t dent the siding.
Starting at the top, dip the chosen cleaning tool into the soapy water and begin scrubbing away any dirt and debris from the siding.
Continue working your way down to the bottom of your section.
Use the hose to rinse away the soapy water. Be sure to remove all the soap before it dries or it will leave a mark on the siding.
Continue on, repeating steps 4-7 for each section.
Additional Tips and Advice
If you’re concerned about putting chemicals into the ground, there are several eco-friendly detergents available to choose from as well.
Trisodium Phosphate can also be used in place of the laundry detergent.
Bleach can be used to remove mildew build-up present on many houses. Mix a mild solution of 1 part bleach with 5 parts water and remove with a scrub brush.
If using a ladder to clean siding near the top of your house, have an additional person available to help. Trying to scrub with a mop or broom while standing on a ladder can be extremely dangerous and should be done with extreme caution.
A white build-up called chalk often appears on aluminum siding due to weathering. If this has occurred on your siding, it can be removed with a siding wash available at most home improvement or hardware stores and plenty of elbow grease.
If your house is too big to complete yourself, you may want to have a professional clean the siding.
Because you will be spraying water and cleaner all around your house, there are a few things to do to protect yourself and items around your house.
Close all windows and doors.
Turn off power to any outside electrical units such as lights, outlets, etc.
Cover plants such as shrubs or flowers to prevent the detergent from damaging them.
Cover any etched glass or metal that may be damaged by cleaning solutions.
Remove any other articles that may be in the way such as outdoor furniture or toys.
Check over the siding for signs of mold or mildew. If you’re unsure if it’s mold, place a drop of bleach on it. If it turns white, it’s mold; if it stays dark, it’s dirt.
Cleaning Aluminum Siding
You Will Need:
Laundry detergent
Water
Soft bristled brush and/or
Broom and old towels and/or
Sponge mop
Large buckets (5 gallon buckets work best)
Hose
Pressure washer (optional)
The Cleaning Process:
It will be easiest to work around your house in 3-5 foot sections.
Fill a large bucket with 4 gallons of water and mix in ¼ cup of laundry detergent.
Gather your cleaning tool, either a brush, mop or wrap an old towel around the head of a broom and secure with duct tape. You’ll want something with a long handle.
Begin by using the hose to spray away any loose dirt and debris. If you have a pressure washer available, that can be used in place of the hose and will likely lessen the amount of scrubbing needed. Be sure to use a low-pressure setting so it doesn’t dent the siding.
Starting at the top, dip the chosen cleaning tool into the soapy water and begin scrubbing away any dirt and debris from the siding.
Continue working your way down to the bottom of your section.
Use the hose to rinse away the soapy water. Be sure to remove all the soap before it dries or it will leave a mark on the siding.
Continue on, repeating steps 4-7 for each section.
Additional Tips and Advice
If you’re concerned about putting chemicals into the ground, there are several eco-friendly detergents available to choose from as well.
Trisodium Phosphate can also be used in place of the laundry detergent.
Bleach can be used to remove mildew build-up present on many houses. Mix a mild solution of 1 part bleach with 5 parts water and remove with a scrub brush.
If using a ladder to clean siding near the top of your house, have an additional person available to help. Trying to scrub with a mop or broom while standing on a ladder can be extremely dangerous and should be done with extreme caution.
A white build-up called chalk often appears on aluminum siding due to weathering. If this has occurred on your siding, it can be removed with a siding wash available at most home improvement or hardware stores and plenty of elbow grease.
If your house is too big to complete yourself, you may want to have a professional clean the siding.
How to clean carpets
First,
vaccuum the area to be shampooed really well. If your sweeper takes
bags, put a new bag in. The more dirt you get out now, the less you
will have to deal with later. Sweep one direction and then come back
and sweep the other direction. Remove as much furniture from the room
as you can! It will make your project easier!
Read the instructions on the shampoo machine and the shampoo. These both will give you some very good information, especially about how much to use! Do not think that more shampoo is better; you'll be making a mess that will be hard to clean up!
If you have stains or extremely dirty spots, treat those with a solution of the shampoo (mixed according to directions) that you have placed in a clean spray bottle. Give them a pretty good soaking down; the shampoo machine will suck up the liquid just don't take a bucket full and dump!
Then pick a starting place and have a go at it! I prefer to start in the corner of the room furthest from the door and work my way towards the door. Keep a dry cloth handy to wipe down the furniture that you get solution on that you were unable to move. The cleaning solution can mark wood finishes! Work in sections applying shampoo and sucking it back out as I go. Get as much solution out as you can! Overly wet carpets will mold and mildew and add to your problems. Let the machine do the work. You can see how much solution you're sucking up with the machine; don't move on to the next section until (1) it's clean and (2) almost no solution is coming back into the recovery tank.
When you're done, turn a fan on the carpets to help them dry and try to keep everyone out of the room at least overnight or until the carpets are dry. Then the next day (when the carpets are fully dry) sweep them again really well! This gets some of the remaining dirt out that was brought to the surface and helps re-fluff the carpet.
I will warn you that when you see how much dirt comes out of your carpets you will want to rip them all out! And that is exactly what we're in the process of doing! Carpets are bad for anyone with allergies because they hold so much yuck!
Read the instructions on the shampoo machine and the shampoo. These both will give you some very good information, especially about how much to use! Do not think that more shampoo is better; you'll be making a mess that will be hard to clean up!
If you have stains or extremely dirty spots, treat those with a solution of the shampoo (mixed according to directions) that you have placed in a clean spray bottle. Give them a pretty good soaking down; the shampoo machine will suck up the liquid just don't take a bucket full and dump!
Then pick a starting place and have a go at it! I prefer to start in the corner of the room furthest from the door and work my way towards the door. Keep a dry cloth handy to wipe down the furniture that you get solution on that you were unable to move. The cleaning solution can mark wood finishes! Work in sections applying shampoo and sucking it back out as I go. Get as much solution out as you can! Overly wet carpets will mold and mildew and add to your problems. Let the machine do the work. You can see how much solution you're sucking up with the machine; don't move on to the next section until (1) it's clean and (2) almost no solution is coming back into the recovery tank.
When you're done, turn a fan on the carpets to help them dry and try to keep everyone out of the room at least overnight or until the carpets are dry. Then the next day (when the carpets are fully dry) sweep them again really well! This gets some of the remaining dirt out that was brought to the surface and helps re-fluff the carpet.
I will warn you that when you see how much dirt comes out of your carpets you will want to rip them all out! And that is exactly what we're in the process of doing! Carpets are bad for anyone with allergies because they hold so much yuck!
How to clean white leather couch
It is unlikely that the manufacturer will have any information about
how to deal with this. In our experience they do not supply quality
information about leather care.
Lexol was made for saddles and should be avoided onthis type of leather.
As the leather is already discoloured it will need a good deep clean before then getting in to a routine of maintenance.
You may need to use specific products if the leather has problems like dye transfer from clothing and jeans which often happens on White leather.
Try a good foam cleaner like Ultra Leather Shampoo an a Jean & Dye Transfer Remover Kit if required to give your leather a good clean. Stronger products or household cleaners may damage the finish so should be avoided.
Please do not use saddle soap as this is far too harsh a product on modern leather finishes and should be used strictly for saddles and saddle leather.
Once you have your leather clean it will be easiest to look after your leather on a regular basis rather than waiting until it gets dirty. This will also prolong the life of the leather.
Keep your leather clean by protecting it with a leather protector and then regular cleaning.
Adding 'conditioners' which generally contain oils and waxes will change the appearance of
your leather over time as dirt will build up on the surface and cause a sheen.
Using the correct care methods and products will not alter the factory finish.
The type of leather you have is 'coated' leather. This is essentially a 'painted' leather
with a clear coat finish over the top. The leather may or may not be dyed through with
aniline dyes prior to the finish coating.
Essentially it is this top coating that needs looking after.
Cleaning is vitally important as the top coat will wear away if allowed to become dirty.
Dirt on the surface will also become ground into the finish by constant abrassion.
'Conditioners', balms, feeds etc (traditionally oil and wax based) cannot penetrate this
finish so are not worth applying - they can also leave behind residues on the finish which
will only attract more dirt if allowed to remain. 'Conditioners' will not do any
protecting on leather even if they say they do as there will not be enough active
ingredient in them to do anything.
A protector will make the finish easier to clean and also inhibit dye transfer etc
on pale coloured leathers.
Leather however finished has to remain breathable and it will allow the movement of
moisture back and forth (transpiration) so the use of water based cleaners and
protectors will keep the leather correctly hydrated which is essentail to keeping it in
good condition.
The routine for correct care should be
Protect from new
Maintain with a regular clean or maintenance product
Deep clean with a foam cleaner once or twice a year
Simple steps of cleaning & protecting will prolong the life of the finish on the leather
Hope this helps
judyb
Lexol was made for saddles and should be avoided onthis type of leather.
As the leather is already discoloured it will need a good deep clean before then getting in to a routine of maintenance.
You may need to use specific products if the leather has problems like dye transfer from clothing and jeans which often happens on White leather.
Try a good foam cleaner like Ultra Leather Shampoo an a Jean & Dye Transfer Remover Kit if required to give your leather a good clean. Stronger products or household cleaners may damage the finish so should be avoided.
Please do not use saddle soap as this is far too harsh a product on modern leather finishes and should be used strictly for saddles and saddle leather.
Once you have your leather clean it will be easiest to look after your leather on a regular basis rather than waiting until it gets dirty. This will also prolong the life of the leather.
Keep your leather clean by protecting it with a leather protector and then regular cleaning.
Adding 'conditioners' which generally contain oils and waxes will change the appearance of
your leather over time as dirt will build up on the surface and cause a sheen.
Using the correct care methods and products will not alter the factory finish.
The type of leather you have is 'coated' leather. This is essentially a 'painted' leather
with a clear coat finish over the top. The leather may or may not be dyed through with
aniline dyes prior to the finish coating.
Essentially it is this top coating that needs looking after.
Cleaning is vitally important as the top coat will wear away if allowed to become dirty.
Dirt on the surface will also become ground into the finish by constant abrassion.
'Conditioners', balms, feeds etc (traditionally oil and wax based) cannot penetrate this
finish so are not worth applying - they can also leave behind residues on the finish which
will only attract more dirt if allowed to remain. 'Conditioners' will not do any
protecting on leather even if they say they do as there will not be enough active
ingredient in them to do anything.
A protector will make the finish easier to clean and also inhibit dye transfer etc
on pale coloured leathers.
Leather however finished has to remain breathable and it will allow the movement of
moisture back and forth (transpiration) so the use of water based cleaners and
protectors will keep the leather correctly hydrated which is essentail to keeping it in
good condition.
The routine for correct care should be
Protect from new
Maintain with a regular clean or maintenance product
Deep clean with a foam cleaner once or twice a year
Simple steps of cleaning & protecting will prolong the life of the finish on the leather
Hope this helps
judyb
How to clean your jewelry
You
can use general household products and clean your jewelry at home,
saving much money from paying jewelry stores to clean them. The
procedures are very simple:
SILVER
Silver jewelry (or anything that's genuine sterling silver) can get tarnished because it gets oxidized through air and moisture. Baking soda activated by boiling water, mixed with aluminum, will dislodge the tarnish by making it bind with the aluminum, leaving the sterling silver clean and shiny again.
Things required:
----baking soda
----glass or plastic dish
----boiling water
----plastic or wood utensil
----absorbent towel
----soft cloth
1. Start boiling just enough water to cover all the jewelry.
2. Line the glass/plastic dish with a piece of aluminum foil.
3. Lay your jewelry on top of the aluminum foil, making sure the silver touches the aluminum.
4. Sprinkle a thin layer of baking soda over the jewelry.
5. Pour enough boiling water to immerse all the jewelry. Bubbling will occur, giving off a "rotten-egg odor" (that's because the sulfuric gases are released).
6. With a wood or plastic utensil, move the pieces around to ensure that all of the silver surfaces come in contact with the aluminum foil. As you do this, you will see that the silver brightens again.
7. Rinse the jewelry under tap water. Put a small sieve over the drain to make sure you don't lose small pieces like earrings.
8. Gently wipe the pieces with an absorbent towel and polish with a soft cloth.
GOLD
Gold doesn't tarnish like silver, but it can get dirty or dulled by the oil in your skin, body lotion, makeup or other substances.
Things required:
----soft toothbrush
----mild dish detergent
----soft polishing cloth
1. Mix 1 squeeze of the mild dish detergent with a bowl of warm water.
2. Put the piece of gold jewelry into the bowl and let it soak for a few minutes.
3. Use the soft toothbrush to gently scrub the jewelry.
4. Remove. Rinse and dry thoroughly with the soft polishing cloth.
SILVER
Silver jewelry (or anything that's genuine sterling silver) can get tarnished because it gets oxidized through air and moisture. Baking soda activated by boiling water, mixed with aluminum, will dislodge the tarnish by making it bind with the aluminum, leaving the sterling silver clean and shiny again.
Things required:
----baking soda
----glass or plastic dish
----boiling water
----plastic or wood utensil
----absorbent towel
----soft cloth
1. Start boiling just enough water to cover all the jewelry.
2. Line the glass/plastic dish with a piece of aluminum foil.
3. Lay your jewelry on top of the aluminum foil, making sure the silver touches the aluminum.
4. Sprinkle a thin layer of baking soda over the jewelry.
5. Pour enough boiling water to immerse all the jewelry. Bubbling will occur, giving off a "rotten-egg odor" (that's because the sulfuric gases are released).
6. With a wood or plastic utensil, move the pieces around to ensure that all of the silver surfaces come in contact with the aluminum foil. As you do this, you will see that the silver brightens again.
7. Rinse the jewelry under tap water. Put a small sieve over the drain to make sure you don't lose small pieces like earrings.
8. Gently wipe the pieces with an absorbent towel and polish with a soft cloth.
GOLD
Gold doesn't tarnish like silver, but it can get dirty or dulled by the oil in your skin, body lotion, makeup or other substances.
Things required:
----soft toothbrush
----mild dish detergent
----soft polishing cloth
1. Mix 1 squeeze of the mild dish detergent with a bowl of warm water.
2. Put the piece of gold jewelry into the bowl and let it soak for a few minutes.
3. Use the soft toothbrush to gently scrub the jewelry.
4. Remove. Rinse and dry thoroughly with the soft polishing cloth.
How to clean acrylic fish tank
Water
and a soft sponge (I prefer to use microfiber sponges on them), and be
careful not to get any sand or particles under the sponge as it will
scratch the tank.
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q...
I also use newspaper, but a flat edge, taking care not to scratch. a newspaper is great for a finishing wipe rather than initial cleaning. And for tough spots, us a credit card or ID card to carefully scrape off hard algae.
Novus acrylic cleaner is great for removing scratches and some cleaning, just complete buff out any solution (with a rag or even using newspaper) and rinse before adding water to the tank.
http://www.aquarium-supply.biz/Novus_3_A...
Edit:
On thin acrylic tanks avoid using really hot water as it can cause some bowing. I've had this issue with taller acrylic tanks, like a 75 gallon Casco. We filled with hot water and it looked pregnant! So, warm water OK, hot water not ok.
http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q...
I also use newspaper, but a flat edge, taking care not to scratch. a newspaper is great for a finishing wipe rather than initial cleaning. And for tough spots, us a credit card or ID card to carefully scrape off hard algae.
Novus acrylic cleaner is great for removing scratches and some cleaning, just complete buff out any solution (with a rag or even using newspaper) and rinse before adding water to the tank.
http://www.aquarium-supply.biz/Novus_3_A...
Edit:
On thin acrylic tanks avoid using really hot water as it can cause some bowing. I've had this issue with taller acrylic tanks, like a 75 gallon Casco. We filled with hot water and it looked pregnant! So, warm water OK, hot water not ok.
How to clean vinyl records
What You’ll Need:
Record cleaning brush
Record cleaner or distilled water
Soft cloth (like an old T-shirt)
Steps:
Dust records before and after each and every use! This should be a part of your record maintenance routine. Dust in concentric motions using a special record cleaning brush (preferably made out of carbon fiber). These brushes can be found in stores that sell records.
For deeper cleaning, using an enzyme- or water- based record cleaner on a soft cloth. In her book, Home Comforts, Cheryl Mendelson also suggests using solutions containing 20% isopropyl alcohol, but be careful because this may cause damage if used over a long period of time. Be wary of using homemade solutions since they are not made with the purest of ingredients, which is necessary for cleaning delicate records. Martha Stewart’s Homekeeping Handbook also suggests using distilled water. Wet cleaning can be done as often as necessary, except if you are using an alcohol base—then clean only when absolutely necessary. WARNING: Careful not to wet the label! Dry in concentric circles with a clean, lint-free cloth (an old T-shirt works well).
For deepest cleaning, use a vacuum record cleaning machine. Such machines, which cost an average of $500, are only practical if you are an avid record collector. This machine completely removes all residue from vinyl records and improves sound quality (even with brand new records!)
Preserve your records by storing them properly. Always handle records by their edges. Your fingertips have dust and oil on them that can damage the delicate vinyl. Store records vertically and out of direct sunlight to prevent warping. Be sure to have enough space for all your records—you don’t want them to be squeezed together too tightly. Replace the paper that your records come in with a sleeve. Outer sleeves should be used, as well, to protect the jacket and keep dust from coming into contact with the record,,,.
Record cleaning brush
Record cleaner or distilled water
Soft cloth (like an old T-shirt)
Steps:
Dust records before and after each and every use! This should be a part of your record maintenance routine. Dust in concentric motions using a special record cleaning brush (preferably made out of carbon fiber). These brushes can be found in stores that sell records.
For deeper cleaning, using an enzyme- or water- based record cleaner on a soft cloth. In her book, Home Comforts, Cheryl Mendelson also suggests using solutions containing 20% isopropyl alcohol, but be careful because this may cause damage if used over a long period of time. Be wary of using homemade solutions since they are not made with the purest of ingredients, which is necessary for cleaning delicate records. Martha Stewart’s Homekeeping Handbook also suggests using distilled water. Wet cleaning can be done as often as necessary, except if you are using an alcohol base—then clean only when absolutely necessary. WARNING: Careful not to wet the label! Dry in concentric circles with a clean, lint-free cloth (an old T-shirt works well).
For deepest cleaning, use a vacuum record cleaning machine. Such machines, which cost an average of $500, are only practical if you are an avid record collector. This machine completely removes all residue from vinyl records and improves sound quality (even with brand new records!)
Preserve your records by storing them properly. Always handle records by their edges. Your fingertips have dust and oil on them that can damage the delicate vinyl. Store records vertically and out of direct sunlight to prevent warping. Be sure to have enough space for all your records—you don’t want them to be squeezed together too tightly. Replace the paper that your records come in with a sleeve. Outer sleeves should be used, as well, to protect the jacket and keep dust from coming into contact with the record,,,.
Source(s):
http://www.howtocleanstuff.net/things/st...
How to safely clean microfiber furniture
How to Clean Microfiber Furniture
Step 1Vacuum the furniture thoroughly to remove any dust, debris or sharp items that might tear or damage the furniture.
Step 2Dampen a white cloth with a small amount of dish soap and gently swirl it over any marks, stains or food spots. Take a clean, dry white cloth and briskly rub the newly cleaned area, circling widely into the already dry areas to blend the two together. Repeat occasionally until the furniture is completely dry.
Step 3Remove food that is stuck to the fabric by gently rubbing until the food dissolves. Do not try to pry or pick it off as this will tear the fabric, causing permanent damage to the furniture.
Step 4Use a baby wipe to remove ink, crayons, marker and other tough stains. Baby wipes will also clean away water rings left by washing with straight water or an incorrect detergent.
Step 5Wet a magic eraser and ring out excess moisture to remove sticky substances like gum and candy.
Step 6Keep your microfiber furniture clean with occasional cleansing with the fabric attachment for your steam cleaner. If you don't have a steam cleaner, you can rent one.
http://www.ehow.com/how_2209637_clean-mi...
How to Clean Microfiber Furniture
Before You Begin
ALWAYS look at the tag! If your furniture came with a care manual, READ IT! The tag and the manual will generally tell you what cleaning techniques you should or shouldn’t use. Sometimes, the tag is clearly marked with a “W” which usually means it is okay to use water. Otherwise, using water to clean the fabric may cause a problem with water marks.
When in doubt, call a professional! Contact either the furniture retailer from which you purchased your furniture to find out the best way to clean it, or contact a company specialized in cleaning microfiber fabric.
ALWAYS test a small, inconspicuous area of the furniture with the proposed cleaning method FIRST.
NEVER saturate the fabric with whatever cleaning solution you are using—always use it as sparingly as possible.
How to Wash Water Safe Microfiber
What you will need:
Vacuum with soft-brush attachment
Gentle soap, such as liquid DOVE or Woolite
Clean terry cloth towel or natural sponge (avoid colored cloths/sponges as dye may run into fabric)
Cold Water
Hair Dryer
Soft-bristle nailbrush
Cleaning Process:
Vacuum with the soft brush attachment to remove dust and loose debris.
Mix a few drops of soap with the cold water.
Dampen sponge or terrycloth towel and wring it out thoroughly to avoid excess moisture.
Working one section at a time, gently wash the surface with the dampened sponge or towel (making sure each time that the sponge or towel is not saturated—only slightly damp).
Immediately upon finishing a section, dry with hair dryer on lowest (coolest) setting.
When the area is dry, brush lightly with the nail brush to restore texture.
How to Wash Non-Water Safe Microfiber
What you will need:
Gentle, dry detergent (i.e. Ivory Snow or Dreft)
Soft-bristle brush
Vacuum Cleaner with soft brush attachment
Dry Cleaning solution (optional)
Cleaning Process:
Vacuum with soft brush attachment to remove dust and loose debris.
Working one section at a time, sprinkle a small amount of dry detergent on the area to be cleaned
Using soft-bristle brush, gently brush dry detergent into the fabric
Vacuum the area completely before moving on to the next section
If this technique does not yield satisfactory results, use a dry cleaning product. Follow the manufacturer’s Instructions for use.
When in doubt, do not hesitate to contact a cleaning professional.
Microfiber Stain Removal
There are several techniques that may be used to remove stains of all types on microfiber furniture. Feel free to try one or more of these techniques, but ALWAYS test a small, inconspicuous area first before using any stain removal technique to make certain the fabric will not be damaged.
Using an aerosol can of original Lysol, lightly spray the stain, blot with a clean cloth.
Make a thick paste of baking soda and water, and apply to the stain. Wait a few minutes, then wipe clean.
Using a baby wipe, gently blot the area of the stain, being careful not to rub the stain into the fabric.
Using a small amount of rubbing alcohol (Isopropyl alcohol) on a soft, white terrycloth towel, gently blot the stain.
Using a small amount of clear alcohol, such as vodka, dampen a soft cloth, and gently blot the stain.
Clean grease stains with Dawn dish soap, Totally Awesome (available at dollar stores), or WD-40. Rinse well after stain is removed.
For stubborn stains, or if your fabric does not appear to tolerate any of the stain removal techniques, your furniture retailer or manufacturer may have a cleaning solution suitable for your particular furniture, so be sure to check with them. Otherwise, you should contact a cleaning service specializing in microfiber furniture.
Step 1Vacuum the furniture thoroughly to remove any dust, debris or sharp items that might tear or damage the furniture.
Step 2Dampen a white cloth with a small amount of dish soap and gently swirl it over any marks, stains or food spots. Take a clean, dry white cloth and briskly rub the newly cleaned area, circling widely into the already dry areas to blend the two together. Repeat occasionally until the furniture is completely dry.
Step 3Remove food that is stuck to the fabric by gently rubbing until the food dissolves. Do not try to pry or pick it off as this will tear the fabric, causing permanent damage to the furniture.
Step 4Use a baby wipe to remove ink, crayons, marker and other tough stains. Baby wipes will also clean away water rings left by washing with straight water or an incorrect detergent.
Step 5Wet a magic eraser and ring out excess moisture to remove sticky substances like gum and candy.
Step 6Keep your microfiber furniture clean with occasional cleansing with the fabric attachment for your steam cleaner. If you don't have a steam cleaner, you can rent one.
http://www.ehow.com/how_2209637_clean-mi...
How to Clean Microfiber Furniture
Before You Begin
ALWAYS look at the tag! If your furniture came with a care manual, READ IT! The tag and the manual will generally tell you what cleaning techniques you should or shouldn’t use. Sometimes, the tag is clearly marked with a “W” which usually means it is okay to use water. Otherwise, using water to clean the fabric may cause a problem with water marks.
When in doubt, call a professional! Contact either the furniture retailer from which you purchased your furniture to find out the best way to clean it, or contact a company specialized in cleaning microfiber fabric.
ALWAYS test a small, inconspicuous area of the furniture with the proposed cleaning method FIRST.
NEVER saturate the fabric with whatever cleaning solution you are using—always use it as sparingly as possible.
How to Wash Water Safe Microfiber
What you will need:
Vacuum with soft-brush attachment
Gentle soap, such as liquid DOVE or Woolite
Clean terry cloth towel or natural sponge (avoid colored cloths/sponges as dye may run into fabric)
Cold Water
Hair Dryer
Soft-bristle nailbrush
Cleaning Process:
Vacuum with the soft brush attachment to remove dust and loose debris.
Mix a few drops of soap with the cold water.
Dampen sponge or terrycloth towel and wring it out thoroughly to avoid excess moisture.
Working one section at a time, gently wash the surface with the dampened sponge or towel (making sure each time that the sponge or towel is not saturated—only slightly damp).
Immediately upon finishing a section, dry with hair dryer on lowest (coolest) setting.
When the area is dry, brush lightly with the nail brush to restore texture.
How to Wash Non-Water Safe Microfiber
What you will need:
Gentle, dry detergent (i.e. Ivory Snow or Dreft)
Soft-bristle brush
Vacuum Cleaner with soft brush attachment
Dry Cleaning solution (optional)
Cleaning Process:
Vacuum with soft brush attachment to remove dust and loose debris.
Working one section at a time, sprinkle a small amount of dry detergent on the area to be cleaned
Using soft-bristle brush, gently brush dry detergent into the fabric
Vacuum the area completely before moving on to the next section
If this technique does not yield satisfactory results, use a dry cleaning product. Follow the manufacturer’s Instructions for use.
When in doubt, do not hesitate to contact a cleaning professional.
Microfiber Stain Removal
There are several techniques that may be used to remove stains of all types on microfiber furniture. Feel free to try one or more of these techniques, but ALWAYS test a small, inconspicuous area first before using any stain removal technique to make certain the fabric will not be damaged.
Using an aerosol can of original Lysol, lightly spray the stain, blot with a clean cloth.
Make a thick paste of baking soda and water, and apply to the stain. Wait a few minutes, then wipe clean.
Using a baby wipe, gently blot the area of the stain, being careful not to rub the stain into the fabric.
Using a small amount of rubbing alcohol (Isopropyl alcohol) on a soft, white terrycloth towel, gently blot the stain.
Using a small amount of clear alcohol, such as vodka, dampen a soft cloth, and gently blot the stain.
Clean grease stains with Dawn dish soap, Totally Awesome (available at dollar stores), or WD-40. Rinse well after stain is removed.
For stubborn stains, or if your fabric does not appear to tolerate any of the stain removal techniques, your furniture retailer or manufacturer may have a cleaning solution suitable for your particular furniture, so be sure to check with them. Otherwise, you should contact a cleaning service specializing in microfiber furniture.
How to clean a diamond
There are several ways to clean a diamond, but not all of them are going to be the best for your type of diamond jewelry.
The first step for how to clean a diamond is to find a small dish or close the drain of the sink and fill it up with water. If you use the sink, you may also want to place a washcloth at the bottom, which will prevent the piece of jewelry from going down the drain should it accidentally be opened. The water that you use for cleaning your diamonds can be any temperature. Although hot water should not damage the diamond, or the yellow gold, white gold, or platinum surrounding the diamond, the best recommendation is warm water. Warm water will help you get the item clean without damaging it.
The next step when you want to clean a diamond is to get a soft-bristled toothbrush and a cleaner. Many people recommend using non-ammonia cleaner, like a glass cleaner, while others choose to use whitening toothpaste to get their diamonds clean. For the most part, the non-ammonia cleaner is the best option as some whitening toothpastes have abrasives that can scratch your diamond as you brush. With the toothbrush, you can begin scrubbing the diamond item.
Typically, the best way to clean a diamond is to clean all around the diamond, including the top part, the sides, and the underneath area. Although the prongs and the setting of the diamond may make it seem difficult, you can gently work in the bristles of a toothbrush to get all aspects of your diamond ring clean, which provides you with the best shine possible.
The last step for cleaning your diamond is to rinse off the cleaner. If you have an area of water that is deep enough, like in your sink, then you can submerge the item in the water and continue to brush it, which will aid in rinsing off any of the cleaner clinging to the item. Then, you can continue to brush and rinse until your diamond sparkles like it once did. If you like, the water can be drained and fresh water used or you can run water from the faucet as a final part of the process to ensure that any residue is removed from your ring. However, you can typically get everything you need off just by dipping the item in water a few times once you are finished with the brushing.
During this time, as you prepare to clean your diamond with your toothbrush and cleaner, you can test your jewelry for durability. This means that before you take the toothbrush to the item, first check to make sure that all prongs are in place and the diamond is secure in its setting. If not, you should first get your diamond checked by a jeweler before trying to conduct a cleaning yourself, which could cause the diamond to become loose. If a jeweler is used to repair your ring, you can usually talk them into giving you a free cleaning as well.
With the approval of a jeweler, you can also purchase a jewelry cleaning machine that is appropriate for your diamond. With this machine, you can place your diamond, whether ring or earrings or similar item, in the machine and have your diamonds cleansed for you while you sleep, shower, or get ready for your day. Most machines are gentle enough that they can handle even delicate products. You can do this on a daily basis, a weekly basis, or when you want. The most important factor, though, is that you are learning how to clean a diamond and you are working to keep your diamond looking its best.
The most common mistake people make, in addition to not learning how to clean a diamond, is not taking the time to actually clean their diamond. Your diamond is probably one of the most precious, if not expensive, items that you will own and should be cared for in the proper way. You clean your home, you clean your car, you clean up after the pets, and most of this is done while you are wearing your diamond jewelry. Keeping that in mind is often the best reminder that your jewelry goes through a lot on a daily basis as you wear it around the house or around town, which is why it needs its own version of tender, loving care.
The first step for how to clean a diamond is to find a small dish or close the drain of the sink and fill it up with water. If you use the sink, you may also want to place a washcloth at the bottom, which will prevent the piece of jewelry from going down the drain should it accidentally be opened. The water that you use for cleaning your diamonds can be any temperature. Although hot water should not damage the diamond, or the yellow gold, white gold, or platinum surrounding the diamond, the best recommendation is warm water. Warm water will help you get the item clean without damaging it.
The next step when you want to clean a diamond is to get a soft-bristled toothbrush and a cleaner. Many people recommend using non-ammonia cleaner, like a glass cleaner, while others choose to use whitening toothpaste to get their diamonds clean. For the most part, the non-ammonia cleaner is the best option as some whitening toothpastes have abrasives that can scratch your diamond as you brush. With the toothbrush, you can begin scrubbing the diamond item.
Typically, the best way to clean a diamond is to clean all around the diamond, including the top part, the sides, and the underneath area. Although the prongs and the setting of the diamond may make it seem difficult, you can gently work in the bristles of a toothbrush to get all aspects of your diamond ring clean, which provides you with the best shine possible.
The last step for cleaning your diamond is to rinse off the cleaner. If you have an area of water that is deep enough, like in your sink, then you can submerge the item in the water and continue to brush it, which will aid in rinsing off any of the cleaner clinging to the item. Then, you can continue to brush and rinse until your diamond sparkles like it once did. If you like, the water can be drained and fresh water used or you can run water from the faucet as a final part of the process to ensure that any residue is removed from your ring. However, you can typically get everything you need off just by dipping the item in water a few times once you are finished with the brushing.
During this time, as you prepare to clean your diamond with your toothbrush and cleaner, you can test your jewelry for durability. This means that before you take the toothbrush to the item, first check to make sure that all prongs are in place and the diamond is secure in its setting. If not, you should first get your diamond checked by a jeweler before trying to conduct a cleaning yourself, which could cause the diamond to become loose. If a jeweler is used to repair your ring, you can usually talk them into giving you a free cleaning as well.
With the approval of a jeweler, you can also purchase a jewelry cleaning machine that is appropriate for your diamond. With this machine, you can place your diamond, whether ring or earrings or similar item, in the machine and have your diamonds cleansed for you while you sleep, shower, or get ready for your day. Most machines are gentle enough that they can handle even delicate products. You can do this on a daily basis, a weekly basis, or when you want. The most important factor, though, is that you are learning how to clean a diamond and you are working to keep your diamond looking its best.
The most common mistake people make, in addition to not learning how to clean a diamond, is not taking the time to actually clean their diamond. Your diamond is probably one of the most precious, if not expensive, items that you will own and should be cared for in the proper way. You clean your home, you clean your car, you clean up after the pets, and most of this is done while you are wearing your diamond jewelry. Keeping that in mind is often the best reminder that your jewelry goes through a lot on a daily basis as you wear it around the house or around town, which is why it needs its own version of tender, loving care.
How to clean imperial polished marble
Regular Cleaning
Occasionally wash marble surfaces with lukewarm water and wipe dry with a clean cloth. Wiping surface with a damp chamois will not leave streaks. Once or twice a year, depending on soil, wash with a mild detergent solution (hand dish-washing detergent and warm water), rinse and wipe dry.
A light coat of wax will protect the surface of marble but is not considered essential. Use colorless wax. Don't wax white marble as it may tend to yellow it. A marble sealer can be applied to clean marble, which will protect from staining and allow soil to be wiped off with a damp cloth.
Special Cleaning
Marble which has become dull can be livened up by using a commercial marble cleaner and polish. Buy from a company that sells marble. Companies generally carry imported polish-cleaners, which are used on softer imported marbles and hence safe for the harder U.S. marble. They work faster and easier than the old "marble care kits" which used to be distributed by marble companies.
Putty powder (tin oxide) can be used to polish dulled or etched surfaces, rubbing on with a damp cloth, folding and refolding to clean damp areas, and preferably using an electric polisher for buffing. However it's very hard to find. Severely damaged surfaces, scratched or etched, can be polished by a business making and selling tombstones or other marble products.
Stain Removal
Make a poultice from white absorbent material such as a napkin, blotter, paper towel or facial tissue, dampened with the chemical recommended below to dissolve that stain; or mix whiting with that chemical to make a soft paste to cover the stain. The poultice should be left on the stain from 1 hour up to 48 hours, depending on the age and depth of the stain. Plastic wrap, held in place by masking tape, can be put over the poultice to keep it damp; otherwise it will have to be re-dampened with the chemical periodically. Mix only enough poultice for immediate use; mix a second batch later if another application is needed.
Organic Stains: Tea, coffee, colors bleached from paper, textiles or soft drinks. Make poultice soaked with 20 percent peroxide (hair bleaching strength) and a few drops of ammonia.
Oil Stains: Oil stains may include butter, hand cream or lotion. As soon as possible, spread surface with an absorbent fine powder such as whiting or even corn starch. After short time brush to remove and reapply more powder. Let stand 24 hours. To remove: Scrub with hot, sudsy (detergent) solution and stiff brush. Or wipe with ammonia-dampened cloth. In either case, then rinse and wipe dry. If these alkaline solutions don't remove all the oil, you can try a solvent. Make a poultice dampened with acetone or amyl acetate (available at drug stores), or with home dry cleaning fluid. Use good ventilation with windows open to remove fumes, do not use near spark or flame, and do not leave on too long.
Rust Stains: Usually the result of metal items such as a lamp, metal container in which plant is placed etc. Use a commercial rust stain remover. Follow directions exactly and do not leave on surface very long as acid in many rust removers can etch the surface.
Acids Fruit juice, carbonated beverages or other acids will etch (remove shiny surface) if allowed to remain on marble. Wipe up acid spill immediately, and wipe surface with wet cloth. If surfaced is etched, polishing may be required.
Occasionally wash marble surfaces with lukewarm water and wipe dry with a clean cloth. Wiping surface with a damp chamois will not leave streaks. Once or twice a year, depending on soil, wash with a mild detergent solution (hand dish-washing detergent and warm water), rinse and wipe dry.
A light coat of wax will protect the surface of marble but is not considered essential. Use colorless wax. Don't wax white marble as it may tend to yellow it. A marble sealer can be applied to clean marble, which will protect from staining and allow soil to be wiped off with a damp cloth.
Special Cleaning
Marble which has become dull can be livened up by using a commercial marble cleaner and polish. Buy from a company that sells marble. Companies generally carry imported polish-cleaners, which are used on softer imported marbles and hence safe for the harder U.S. marble. They work faster and easier than the old "marble care kits" which used to be distributed by marble companies.
Putty powder (tin oxide) can be used to polish dulled or etched surfaces, rubbing on with a damp cloth, folding and refolding to clean damp areas, and preferably using an electric polisher for buffing. However it's very hard to find. Severely damaged surfaces, scratched or etched, can be polished by a business making and selling tombstones or other marble products.
Stain Removal
Make a poultice from white absorbent material such as a napkin, blotter, paper towel or facial tissue, dampened with the chemical recommended below to dissolve that stain; or mix whiting with that chemical to make a soft paste to cover the stain. The poultice should be left on the stain from 1 hour up to 48 hours, depending on the age and depth of the stain. Plastic wrap, held in place by masking tape, can be put over the poultice to keep it damp; otherwise it will have to be re-dampened with the chemical periodically. Mix only enough poultice for immediate use; mix a second batch later if another application is needed.
Organic Stains: Tea, coffee, colors bleached from paper, textiles or soft drinks. Make poultice soaked with 20 percent peroxide (hair bleaching strength) and a few drops of ammonia.
Oil Stains: Oil stains may include butter, hand cream or lotion. As soon as possible, spread surface with an absorbent fine powder such as whiting or even corn starch. After short time brush to remove and reapply more powder. Let stand 24 hours. To remove: Scrub with hot, sudsy (detergent) solution and stiff brush. Or wipe with ammonia-dampened cloth. In either case, then rinse and wipe dry. If these alkaline solutions don't remove all the oil, you can try a solvent. Make a poultice dampened with acetone or amyl acetate (available at drug stores), or with home dry cleaning fluid. Use good ventilation with windows open to remove fumes, do not use near spark or flame, and do not leave on too long.
Rust Stains: Usually the result of metal items such as a lamp, metal container in which plant is placed etc. Use a commercial rust stain remover. Follow directions exactly and do not leave on surface very long as acid in many rust removers can etch the surface.
Acids Fruit juice, carbonated beverages or other acids will etch (remove shiny surface) if allowed to remain on marble. Wipe up acid spill immediately, and wipe surface with wet cloth. If surfaced is etched, polishing may be required.
Source(s):
http://www.doityourself.com/stry/marble
How to clean eyeglasses clearly
Wash lenses daily with a mild soap and warm water to remove dirt and oil and avoid massive buildup.
2
Dry lenses with a lens cloth or nonabrasive cotton. Avoid using paper towels or camera lens paper.
3
Purchase a professional lens-cleaning cloth and lens gel (or spray) to remove fingerprints, dirt buildup and smudges.
4
Hold glasses by the eye frame with your thumb and forefinger of one hand. Use the other hand to gently buff the lenses in a circular motion. Do not press too hard on the lenses.
5
Wash the cleaning cloth weekly with a mild, nonabrasive soap. Avoid using fabric softener when drying the cloth.
2
Dry lenses with a lens cloth or nonabrasive cotton. Avoid using paper towels or camera lens paper.
3
Purchase a professional lens-cleaning cloth and lens gel (or spray) to remove fingerprints, dirt buildup and smudges.
4
Hold glasses by the eye frame with your thumb and forefinger of one hand. Use the other hand to gently buff the lenses in a circular motion. Do not press too hard on the lenses.
5
Wash the cleaning cloth weekly with a mild, nonabrasive soap. Avoid using fabric softener when drying the cloth.
How to clean inflatable bouncer
Fill a large bucket up with lukewarm water and soap. Be sure you do not
place too much soap inside of it. You do not have to ruin or wear down
the fabric of the bouncer. Utilize a soft brush to wipe down the whole
thing. Be sure to be gentle and utilize something soft and gentle to
clean it off.
Using something with hard bristles can tear or maybe deflate the bouncer. It is manageable to repair these holes - but it will diminish the value of it and it cannot be used for much longer once that has happened.
When you have cleaned off all of the dirt from the sides, top, and inside you can rinse it off. Use a garden hose to spray it down totally. Make sure that you do this early on in the day so when you are done it can dry out in the sun all day long.
Using something with hard bristles can tear or maybe deflate the bouncer. It is manageable to repair these holes - but it will diminish the value of it and it cannot be used for much longer once that has happened.
When you have cleaned off all of the dirt from the sides, top, and inside you can rinse it off. Use a garden hose to spray it down totally. Make sure that you do this early on in the day so when you are done it can dry out in the sun all day long.
Source(s):
http://www.pangoinflatable.com
How to make Chocolate Chili Cake
Chocolate-Ancho Chili Cake :
2 sticks unsalted butter, plus extra for pan
8 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped
1/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder, sifted, plus more for dusting
3 tablespoons ancho chili powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
6 large eggs, separated
1 cup sugar
1 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons confectioners' sugar
Pinch ground cinnamon
-- Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.
-- Lightly butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch springform pan. Line the bottom with parchment paper and butter the paper. Set aside.
-- In the top of a double boiler, melt the chocolate and butter over medium-low heat. Remove from the heat and whisk in the cocoa, chili powder, and salt.
-- In a bowl, whisk together the egg yolks with 1/2 cup of the sugar until thick and pale yellow in color. Fold the chocolate mixture into the yolks and mix well.
-- In another bowl, whisk the egg whites until thick. Whisking, add the remaining 1/2 cup sugar gradually and continue to beat to form a light meringue.
-- In several additions, fold into the chocolate mixture, being careful not to deflate the meringue.
-- Gently pour into the prepared pan and bake until the edges are set but the center is still moist and a few crumbs stick to a tester, about 45 minutes.
-- Remove from the oven and cool completely in the pan on a wire rack.
-- Run a thin, sharp knife around the edge of the cake. Remove the pan sides and gently lift away the cake. Invert onto a cake plate, remove the bottom and peel away the parchment.
-- In a bowl, beat the cream with an electric mixer until frothy. Add the confectioners' sugar and cinnamon and continue to beat until the cream holds soft peaks.
-- To serve, slice the cake with a portion of the sweetened whipped cream. Garnish with cocoa powder and serve.
2 sticks unsalted butter, plus extra for pan
8 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped
1/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder, sifted, plus more for dusting
3 tablespoons ancho chili powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
6 large eggs, separated
1 cup sugar
1 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons confectioners' sugar
Pinch ground cinnamon
-- Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.
-- Lightly butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch springform pan. Line the bottom with parchment paper and butter the paper. Set aside.
-- In the top of a double boiler, melt the chocolate and butter over medium-low heat. Remove from the heat and whisk in the cocoa, chili powder, and salt.
-- In a bowl, whisk together the egg yolks with 1/2 cup of the sugar until thick and pale yellow in color. Fold the chocolate mixture into the yolks and mix well.
-- In another bowl, whisk the egg whites until thick. Whisking, add the remaining 1/2 cup sugar gradually and continue to beat to form a light meringue.
-- In several additions, fold into the chocolate mixture, being careful not to deflate the meringue.
-- Gently pour into the prepared pan and bake until the edges are set but the center is still moist and a few crumbs stick to a tester, about 45 minutes.
-- Remove from the oven and cool completely in the pan on a wire rack.
-- Run a thin, sharp knife around the edge of the cake. Remove the pan sides and gently lift away the cake. Invert onto a cake plate, remove the bottom and peel away the parchment.
-- In a bowl, beat the cream with an electric mixer until frothy. Add the confectioners' sugar and cinnamon and continue to beat until the cream holds soft peaks.
-- To serve, slice the cake with a portion of the sweetened whipped cream. Garnish with cocoa powder and serve.
How to make rice cakes
Rice-Hash Cakes:
Cook Time
10 min
prep: 15 min.
Total: 25 min.
Ingredients
* 3 tablespoons butter
* 1/2 pound roast pork or beef, cut 1/2-inch cubes (more or less)
* 1 cup cooked and diced potato, cut 1/2-inch cubes
* 1 cup small diced onion
* 1/4 cup small diced carrot
* 1/4 cup small diced celery
* 1 cup sliced raw mushrooms
* 1/2 cup chicken or beef broth
* 1 cup cooked and drained rice
* 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
* 1 egg, lightly beaten
* Salt and pepper, to taste
Directions
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.
Melt the butter in a saucepan. When hot and bubbly, and the onion, carrot and celery. Cook until the vegetables begin to soften. Add the beef, potato and mushrooms and cook for an additional 4 minutes. Transfer the mixture to a bowl, mix in the rice, sprinkle with the flour and then with the broth. Mix in the egg. Sprinkle with salt and pepper.
Lightly butter a baking sheet. Using a lightly oiled bowl for a mold, pack about 1 1/2 cups of the mixture into a lightly oiled small bowl and turn out onto the baking dish. Repeat 3 times for 4 hash cakes.
Alternatively, these can be hand shaped. Lightly dusted with additional flour and sauteed in your grandmother's heirloom cast iron skillet.
Cook Time
10 min
prep: 15 min.
Total: 25 min.
Ingredients
* 3 tablespoons butter
* 1/2 pound roast pork or beef, cut 1/2-inch cubes (more or less)
* 1 cup cooked and diced potato, cut 1/2-inch cubes
* 1 cup small diced onion
* 1/4 cup small diced carrot
* 1/4 cup small diced celery
* 1 cup sliced raw mushrooms
* 1/2 cup chicken or beef broth
* 1 cup cooked and drained rice
* 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
* 1 egg, lightly beaten
* Salt and pepper, to taste
Directions
Preheat oven to 350 degrees F.
Melt the butter in a saucepan. When hot and bubbly, and the onion, carrot and celery. Cook until the vegetables begin to soften. Add the beef, potato and mushrooms and cook for an additional 4 minutes. Transfer the mixture to a bowl, mix in the rice, sprinkle with the flour and then with the broth. Mix in the egg. Sprinkle with salt and pepper.
Lightly butter a baking sheet. Using a lightly oiled bowl for a mold, pack about 1 1/2 cups of the mixture into a lightly oiled small bowl and turn out onto the baking dish. Repeat 3 times for 4 hash cakes.
Alternatively, these can be hand shaped. Lightly dusted with additional flour and sauteed in your grandmother's heirloom cast iron skillet.
Source(s):
http://www.foodnetwork.com/
How to make hummingbird cake
Hummingbird Cake
Ingredients
3 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
2 cups sugar
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
3 large eggs, beaten
1 cup vegetable oil
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1 (8-ounce) can crushed pineapple, undrained
1 cup chopped pecans
2 cups chopped bananas
Cream Cheese Frosting
1/2 cup chopped pecans
Preparation
Combine first 5 ingredients in a large bowl; add eggs and oil, stirring until dry ingredients are moistened. (Do not beat.) Stir in vanilla, pineapple, 1 cup pecans, and bananas.
Pour batter into three greased and floured 9-inch round cakepans. Bake at 350° for 25 to 30 minutes or until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean. Cool in pans on wire racks 10 minutes; remove from pans, and cool completely on wire racks.
Spread Cream Cheese Frosting between layers and on top and sides of cake; sprinkle 1/2 cup chopped pecans on top. Store in refrigerator.
Ingredients
3 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
2 cups sugar
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
3 large eggs, beaten
1 cup vegetable oil
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
1 (8-ounce) can crushed pineapple, undrained
1 cup chopped pecans
2 cups chopped bananas
Cream Cheese Frosting
1/2 cup chopped pecans
Preparation
Combine first 5 ingredients in a large bowl; add eggs and oil, stirring until dry ingredients are moistened. (Do not beat.) Stir in vanilla, pineapple, 1 cup pecans, and bananas.
Pour batter into three greased and floured 9-inch round cakepans. Bake at 350° for 25 to 30 minutes or until a wooden pick inserted in center comes out clean. Cool in pans on wire racks 10 minutes; remove from pans, and cool completely on wire racks.
Spread Cream Cheese Frosting between layers and on top and sides of cake; sprinkle 1/2 cup chopped pecans on top. Store in refrigerator.
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